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Chateau de Chamirey Mercurey vineyard Chef Florian Giraud Chef Salome, Maison des Ateliers of vineyards with eagles flying overhead and wild birds singing joyfully, brought one of those memorable moments of pure happiness. We could see Mont Blanc in the distance (a sign of bad weather apparently). “It’s in the blood, we make wine, we drink it, we talk about it all the time” says this passionate wine marker. “A good bottle of wine is an empty bottle.” Leave the vineyards to take a wander in Chalon-sur-Saône where Joseph Nicéphore- Niépce was born and where a museum is dedicated to him. You might not know his name, but his legacy has left a huge impact. Born in 1765, he is known as the “father of photography” and was the first to create a permanent photographic image. And the beautiful 11th century cloisters Cloisters of Cathedral St Vincent of the Cathedral are a lovely place to relax and enjoy the artworks. The cloisters been through several transformations, houses were once built in the centre, and at one time a vinegar factory was set up in the buildings. Head to the buzzing bar and café-lined Place St Vincent, named after the Patron Saint of Wine, to enjoy a local tipple. Read more about the town here: achalon.com/en Where to stay: Le Saint Georges hotel is cosy, comfy and conveniently for rail travellers, next to the train station. Restaurant Greuze, Tournus Tournus – a hidden gem 30km on, another must-visit, is the lovely town of Tournus, along the banks of the Saone River, though it is just 35km from the great abbey of Cluny. If you dream of stumbling on a little place with fabulous food, wonderful wines and a warm welcome, then Tournus is it. Pickled wild garlic buds made by Chef Giraud from his morning foraging walk Burgundy is possibly the stomach of France and in Tournus, good restaurants abound, but three stand out for their truly superb dishes. Head a little out of town to Le Relais d’Ozenay of chef Florian Giraud. It’s a beautifully decorated restaurant in a glorious part of the countryside. Chef Giraud knows all his suppliers by name, locals who have a passion for their produce. He’s typical of the hundreds and hundreds of artisans whose restaurants, farms, wine and beer chocolate and more, make up your guides and introducers to taste sensations along the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie. In the centre of town there are two Michelin starred restaurants: Greuze headed up by chef Yohann Chapuis, and Aux Terrasses run by chef Jean-Michel Carrette. And get acquainted with the terrific local wines at the cave des Vignerons de Mancey. Tournus deserves many more words so head to page 72 to read about the incredible ancient hospital, the chefs and charms of this ancient town. Where to stay: You’re spoiled for choice for fabulous hotels here – I stayed at the gorgeous Hotel les 7 Fontaines which has a spa and fabulous wine tasting cellar. Mâcon – memorable for food and wine Mâcon is a wine town and the gateway to the vineyards of southern Burgundy. The town pays tribute to the history of the local wine production with the opening this year of the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne wine Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne 50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51
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