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Secret France: TOURNUS The little-known town of Tournus in Burgundy is a huge surprise with its stupendous 17th century Hotel Dieu, winding cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings, superb local wines and an inspired gastronomic scene with an international reputation says Janine Marsh. Tournus in the Saône-et-Loire Department is overshadowed somewhat by neighbouring Cluny, home to one of France’s greatest abbeys. But stray a little because Tournus, a town of some 6000 people that sits astride the Saône River, surrounded by vineyards and glorious countryside, is a well-kept secret that deserves a detour. Tournus has its own Abbey – Saint-Phillibert, one of only two churches left in France with this type of Romanesque architecture which spans from the 11th and 12th centuries. There’s also a fascinating bike museum where you can even take a ride on some unusual bikes. Tournus’ picturesque alleys are home to beautiful buildings, artisan shops and art galleries. But for me, the real surprise was the incredible Hotel Dieu, certainly a rival to the famous Hospices de Beaune. Hotel Dieu of Tournus This ancient hospital has been restored to look just as it did in its heyday in the 17th century. You can only visit by guided tour, but it is so worth it, taking in the atmospheric sick wards, the extraordinary apothecary, and exquisite plate room and medicinal gardens. There’s a rather horrifying collection of medical instruments on display and frankly, there is nowhere I’d like to have those nozzles inserted! The guide takes great pleasure in explaining what all the needles, hooks and jagged metal implements are for, and if you’re in any doubt about how utterly awful medical treatment might have been a few centuries back, he will enlighten you. I was quite sure I could smell the smoke from the ancient fireplace in the men’s ward, and it’s easy to imagine these wood panelled rooms lit by candle. The beds are made as if The apothecary waiting for an intake of 17th century patients, very short beds as was the fashion of the day when people slept half sitting (lying flat was associated with death). There is also an incredible plate room full of 18th century pewter treasures. And the apothecary is full of sparkling glass bottles and blue and white porcelain jars that once stored ointments and potions where I spotted a beautiful jar of Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs – Four Thieves The plate room 72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73
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