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The Chapel Vinegar – which is still used to this day in France for various ailments including colds and lice. Legend has it that in the 14th century, four thieves from Marseilles robbed corpses during a plague epidemic, without themselves ever being contaminated. They claimed to have discovered a remedy, the famous ‘vinegar of the four thieves’, which they took daily, containing herbs such as garlic, mint, lavender, sage, rosemary and thyme steeped in cider vinegar. With its 300 jars, and ancient wood panelled walls, this is one of the oldest and most wellpreserved apothecaries in France. There is also a truly stunning chapel, and a pretty medicinal garden. Incredibly the hospital functioned until the late 20th century, closing its doors to patients only in 1982. This is as extraordinary a place as you will find in France and yet it is hardly known even to those who live nearby. Ben, the guide, says there is a soul to this building and whispered ‘au revoir’ when he closed the doors. I whispered it too, I think he’s right. (Audio guide is available in English, German, Dutch, and Italian, book your tour at Tournus tourist office). Wine tasting Burgundy is wine country, and at Vignerons de Mancey you can sample and buy the finest local wines, white, red and a superb crémant made the same way as Champagne. Here you can also taste Aligoté – a traditional white wine, “a local thing” says the guide adding it’s better used in cocktails. I highly recommend the delicious wines served with creamy local goats’ cheese, salty comté from neighbouring Jura, and cheese gougères which Burgundians tuck into at the drop of a hat – a brilliant cheese and wine tasting tour. Tasting sessions are held daily. Reserve in advance if you want a tour in English - by email direct at lesvigneronsdemancey.fr or via the very helpful tourist office and believe me you do not want to miss this one! The Good Life France podcast Everything you want to know about France and more... thegoodlifefrance.com Tournus is a taste sensation! Food and wine lovers are spoiled for choice in this little town. From the fabulous wine tasting cellar of the elegant Hotel les 7 Fontaines, to the cute brocante café where you can browse the second hand treasures as you sip a coffee and nibble on a homemade biscuit. However, Tournus is a gastronomic giant with not just one, but two Michelin starred restaurants in the centre of the town. The kitchen of Restaurant L’Ecrin in a historic building, now the hotel Maison Greuze, is run by Yohann Chapuis. The menu serves divine classic dishes but with an innovative twist, featuring herbs and spices that make your tastebuds tingle. 74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75
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