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Cherries jubilee is greatest – he developed la brigade de cuisine and streamlined kitchen organisation. Kitchens had to quickly serve haute cuisine to clients with limited time. Escoffier believed that the food should never be jeopardised and his new system ensured that no specific tasks were repeated. Instead, duties were delegated depending on the station. He created numerous roles – a pâtissier, saucier, rotissier, and a garde manger who organised the pantry. He banned alcohol and instead served a refreshing malt drink to keep his chefs hydrated. Bad behaviour was forbidden and whenever he himself felt angry he would leave the kitchen to calm down. He insisted chefs keep their whites clean and change to go home. It is thanks to Escoffier than kitchens became considerably more humane places to work, and his rules have become a matter of instinct for chefs today. Despite all of these incredible breakthroughs in gastronomy and service, for which he Scan of British postcard, circa 1905, showing the Carlton Hotel, London was the first chef to be awarded Legion d’Honneur, Escoffier’s reputation has tarnished with time. In 1914, an abbreviated version of Escoffier’s Guide was published. Although the authors insisted that the original was of more value – and for a time, the post-WWI society of the 1920s lived by Escoffier’s teachings of good food and lavish excess – it was eventually forgotten in favour of the simplified version. This had the problematic effect of destroying Escoffier’s legacy. Not only were many of his recipes outdated, but the abbreviations redacted his enthusiasm and passion, his dedication to food and flavour. His lifetime’s work became associated with old-fashioned, rigid instructions devoid of reasoning. Accordingly, the French devised Nouvelle Cuisine in the 1960s, while British gastronomy, which continued to cling to the Escoffier practices, fell into a rut. Escoffier died in 1935. He was an eccentric character ahead of his time. He shaped our culinary repertoires, and it is thanks to him that we all know how to make a bechamel sauce! Love French food? Have a listen to our A-Z of French food podcast! We can help with: • Moving to France or Spain • Setting up and running a business • Help with VISA, residency and work permits and taxes • Legal advice and Insurance • Healthcare advice B +33 950 75 81 92 a +34 711 05 32 28 pleasehelp.eu k 88 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 89
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