Gateway to one of the

Gateway to one of the largest national forests in France, Compiègne in Hauts de France is full of nice surprises. Gillian Thornton explored on two legs and four. Easing my amiable mount to a standstill, I relaxed the reins for a few moments to take in the view down the broad grassy avenue towards the distant chateau of Compiègne. After all, it’s not every day I get the chance to ride in the hoof prints of kings and emperors, nor to explore the vast natural paradise that lay at their back door. Some 85 kilometres north of Paris in the department of Oise, Compiègne Forest is bisected by more than 300 km of footpaths and 130 km of cycle tracks. Walk it, bike it, or do as I did and book a guided hack from the Pôle Equestre du Compiégnois astride a French breed of horse ideally suited to a relaxed forest adventure. Native to the Baie de Somme in Picardy, the Henson is a small, good-natured and suitable for both novice and expert riders. Our small group walked and trotted along quiet forest trails to a soundtrack of birdsong, before eventually emerging from the trees for our distant view of the vast chateau. Hensons back in the paddock, I headed into town for a close-up view. The first chateau was built here in the 15th century under Charles V, keeping its medieval appearance until the 17th century when Louis XV commissioned a new building. Most kings of France until Charles X in 1825 stopped over in Compiègne on the way to their coronation in Reims, with ‘Sun King’ Louis XIV visiting no less than 75 times, starting in 1646. But whilst Louis XIV made some minor improvements, it was Louis XVI who masterminded a whole new wing and made changes to the interior décor, only to have the collections dispersed after he and his Austrian Le Weekend: COMPIÈGNE, Picardy 90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91