Chateau of Lourmarin,

Chateau of Lourmarin, which I’d spotted on the way into the village and couldn’t wait to explore. Perched on a hill, its walls were covered in waterfalls of jasmine and cascades of roses every shade of pink, their perfume filled the warm air with perfume, and the ravishing view from the chateau’s courtyard over the village stopped me in my tracks. The stately chateau, part 16th-century Renaissance, part medieval, was purchased in the 1920s by an art-loving industrialist from Lyon, Robert Laurent-Vibert, who restored it with the aid of archive documents and ancient engravings. Now an exhibition centre, the rooms are beautifully furnished, the double spiral medieval staircase is magnificent, the library is exquisite, filled with exceptional and ancient travel books, and there is a superb collection of rare musical instruments. Lourmarin is officially one of the prettiest villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages), one of five in the Luberon (the others are Ansouis, Menerbes, Gordes and Roussillon). But this is no Disney fairy tale village, though it is as charming as one. sit alongside a pharmacy, bank, food stores and boulangeries. Head off into the warren of streets in the town, and you may spot the ancient laverie, a stone basin where women would wash garments in the Middle Ages. It’s still a communal area in a gated garden, and here the older ladies of the town meet, stopping to sit and gossip about who is marrying whom and who is doing what whilst pegging out their washing. Locals call it the gossip garden - the place where you get all the news. Traditions and the Provencal way of life are revered here. your time, savour the details, sit at a café for hours, explore the markets, do a wine tasting, olive oil tasting, eat good food, make your own lavender bag, meet artisans, feel the spirituality of the Abbaye de Senanque - so much to experience, so many beautiful villages, so much joy. It’s a place that touches your soul. 15 things to do in the Luberon I could write a book on all there is to do in the Luberon, but here are some favourites, all less than one hour by car from Lourmarin. Gordes: The view of this hilltop beauty from the road below is iconic, otherworldly almost (stop at the Bel Air rock for the best views). Explore its ancient streets to admire the fountains, boutiques, and honey-coloured buildings, you’ll be in good company - Renoir, Picasso, Matisse and Van Gogh The fountain in the main square of the perched village of Gordes in Provence was the main source of water for the villagers from 1826 until as late as 1956. Lourmarin has a thriving restaurant scene Lourmarin’s cobbled streets are full of ancient buildings With a population of around 1000 permanent residents, it’s a rather sleepy place, except on Friday mornings - market day, when people come from far and wide to buy at stalls piled high with vegetables, fruit, cheese, honey and all manner of delicious products, as well as homewares and fashion. In its mostly pedestrianised cobbled lanes, artisan workshops, artists' galleries and chic boutiques There are plenty of restaurants, from snack food to fine dining, and afterwards wander the streets for a post-dinner walk, spotting cats that wriggle coquettishly at the side of the road trying to tempt you to rub their bellies as you listen to amorous frogs croaking in garden ponds. After one day in Lourmarin, I was chilled. After two days, I felt like a local. The joy of Luberon is not just in its beauty. It’s not a place to rush around but to take 10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11