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Spotlight on ALBI Sainte-Cécile Cathedral Interior of Sainte-Cécile Cathedral The vibrant colours of Albi dazzle in any weather. Gillian Thornton explores La Ville Rouge in the Tarn. Wherever you travel in the world, some views just stick in your mind forever. To find one unforgettable panorama is a memory to treasure, but to find a succession of wowmoments in the same town is a rare treat. Welcome to Albi, largest town of the Tarn department in south-west France and a feast for the eyes whichever way you look at it. I have never forgotten my first view of Albi’s enormous hilltop cathedral, largest brick cathedral in the world. From the outside, Sainte-Cecile resembles a towering fortress, built in the early 13 th century as a blatant show of Roman Catholic supremacy following a Papal crusade to supress the Cathar movement. Welcomed by the ruling Counts of Toulouse and by many local people, especially around Albi, the Cathar doctrine strongly opposed many Catholic practices. So Albi’s new cathedral sent an unequivocal message to anyone reckless enough to sympathise with heretic ideology. Look at our church and then decide who’s boss... So when I make a welcome return to Albi this summer, I am humbled to find that the impact of this imposing exterior is still every bit as powerful. And not just the outside. Sainte- Cécile is also the largest cathedral in Europe with a completely painted interior. Step through the ornate 16 th century side porch and behind that sombre façade, the walls, ceiling and roof arches are covered in biblical scenes painted in brilliant rainbow shades. Created in the 16 th century by Renaissance artists from Italy, they cover earlier painted scenes of which fragments are still visible. Entry to the nave is free but expect a small charge to enter the Choir. 36 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 37
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