town houses and city

town houses and city development; and Gold for the Old Quarter that includes not just the Cathedral but also Toulouse-Lautrec’s birthplace and the pretty, flower-filled cloister of Saint-Salvi. And there are other ways to explore the rich history of La Ville Rouge. Hop aboard Le Petit Train outside Sainte-Cécile for a 40-minute ride with commentary, or do as I did and take a private tour with Le Tacot Cathare and let your English-speaking driver Marc Fanals reveal some of Albi’s hidden gems. Marc and his 2CV Tacot may be the French word for an ‘old banger’ but qualified tour guide Marc has nothing but affection for Griotte, his classic red-and-white Citroën 2CV that can drive down narrow streets impassable to larger vehicles, including the city’s narrowest thoroughfare at just 1 metre 40 wide. Only 5.5 million of these iconic vehicles were made between 1948 and 1990, but 2,000 beloved bangers still circulate on the roads of France. And Griotte? Marc bought his 2CV with a red ‘griotte’ cherry sticker already in place and the name just stuck! But not everything in Albi is red. After a delicious ‘bistronomic’ lunch at La Forge du Vieil Albi, I set out to discover the city’s green side on a short cruise by gabarre or flat-bottomed boat with Albi Croisieres. Starting from a mooring on the Echapée Verte, the Green Escape trail that hugs the riverbank beneath the cathedral complex, we glide away from town between treelined banks, watching for waterfowl, then turn back to pass beneath the new foot bridge and the Pont Vieux as far as the weir before the second road bridge. Longer options include 90-minute picnic cruises and nature cruises. Before I leave, there is just time to discover some more vibrant local colours at Les Poteries d’Albi, a thriving artisanal business around ten minutes’ walk from the hotel. Founded in 1891 as a brick factory, this renowned pottery has been in the same family for seven generations, and now produces stunning pots and vases for indoor and outdoor décor, all hand-made and enamelled in vibrant colours. With 127 shapes and sizes to choose from and 54 tempting colour combinations, what do I choose to brighten my own home? A hard choice but in the end, I go for a sparkling shade of reddish-brown. The perfect souvenir from the Tarn’s stunning Ville Rouge. LE MOULIN SUR CÉLÉ An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley Experience la France Profonde www.lemoulinsurcele.com 40 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 41