Brantôme-en-Périgord:

Brantôme-en-Périgord: The Venice of Périgord Vert From troglodyte caves to a monumental Benedictine abbey and charming medieval streets, history abounds in Brantôme-en-Périgord, as Karen Tait finds out. Shaped by water and time The site was first inhabited in the 5th century by monks who carved out troglodyte shelters Brantôme-en-Périgord © Karen Tait © Karen Tait © Karen Tait along the Dronne’s banks, protected by cliffs and sustained by river water for drinking and agriculture. These ancient dwellings can be explored from the abbey courtyard, including one with scenes of the Last Judgement carved into the stone, thought to date back to the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, the caves have served many purposes - from monastic retreats and burial chambers to venues for modern art exhibitions and shops selling regional products. The abbey was founded in the 8th century by the Frankish king Charlemagne, who donated relics of Saint Sicarius, one of the infant boys slaughtered by Herod. This brought pilgrims and prosperity, boosted by river trade and tolls on passing boats. At the northern end of the abbey on a rocky outcrop, the Romanesque bell tower is said to be one of the oldest in France, dating from the 11th century. Climb to the top for sweeping views of the town and river. Inside the church, gilded wooden panels depict key moments in the abbey’s history, including Charlemagne’s donation of the relics, and there are also remains of the 15 th -century cloisters. Inside the abbey, the Fernand Desmoulin Museum displays the French spiritual artist’s work from the early 1900s. The abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, suffering during Viking raids and the Hundred Years’ War. In the 16th century, the abbot Pierre de Bourdeille - known as ‘Brantôme’ - is said to have saved the abbey from Huguenot attack by inviting the invaders to a feast instead! During the French Revolution, the abbey was secularised and became the property of the city. Riverside charm At the abbey’s southern end you can see the elegant Renaissance Pavilion and the Tour St-Roch, part of the original defences. Nearby, the tranquil Grand Jardin or Jardin des Moines was once the abbey’s private garden. 42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43