in Grenoble and Vienne

in Grenoble and Vienne How to spend a long weekend in Grenoble and Vienne. Two cities which dance to a very different rhythm but make the perfect weekend escape says Lucy Pitts as she explores the vibrant alpine cities...

The best place to start exploring is from the 18th century Bastille which watches over the city from across the River Isère, 500 metres above. It’s a popular challenge for runners and you can walk, run or catch the iconic baubles of the 1920s cable car up to the top. The Bastille is the gateway to endless hiking and mountain trails, but it also has zip lines, a museum and a café. Most importantly however, it provides you with a unique aerial map of the city and a chance to eat at the Chez le Pèr’Gras restaurant which quietly presides over the view. The Bohemian chic of Championnet The district of Championnet outside the historic centre has a village atmosphere and a touch of bohemia. Here you’ll find clusters of designers, unusual boutiques, art galleries and workshops. Tucked away in the Isère department of the Auvergne Rhône Alpes region in the south east of France, Grenoble bustles. It’s got a cosmopolitan feel but also a sense of calm probably due to the composed presence of the Pre-Alpes that completely surround it. But if you tend to only associate Grenoble with winter sports, then think again. Getting your bearings from above Although Grenoble has a modern feel, it has a history that dates back to the Romans which results in a blend of architecture and styles. As you’d expect, the Grenoblois value their high-quality produce, and local specialities include the Grenoble walnut, the Chartreuse liqueur and of course cheese, from the soft blue Vercors -Sassenage to the nutty Le Comte. In Rue de Strausbourg, to the east of the Hoche district, you’ll find victuallers in abundance, including cheese specialist Bernard Mure-Ravaud, a big personality with a large moustache, a world champion cheesemonger and voted France’s top “tradesman” 2007. He’s one of the driving forces behind the annual Descent des Alpages in October. It's an event which celebrates the return of the local cattle from their summer alpine grazing. There's a a parade of cows through the streets of Grenoble and a showcasing of local produce with hundreds of street stalls and displays.