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ART: Palais des Beaux Arts The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its name, it really is a grand palace and one of the largest museums in France. It has the second biggest collection of fine arts outside of Paris with exhibits from antiquity to contemporary, including all the greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to the basement to discover a unique collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen 17th century exact replica miniature models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium (it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were once used by Louis XIV and his famous martial engineer Vauban to plan military tactics. There are regular, world class temporary exhibitions, and innovative touch screens (including gigapixel) help visitors to explore the artworks. EAT: Au Moulin d'Or Au Moulin d'Or is very close by, in the centre of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store which is a listed monument, this restaurant featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous standard with glittering chandeliers and a gorgeous central staircase and regularly showcases local artists. Upstairs or downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a classic brasserie menu – delicious. 31-33 Place du Théâtre
ART: Musée de l’Hospice de la Comtesse The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for the poor and sick, there’s a wonderful painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and her sister Marguerite giving money to the hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the building dates to the 1400’s and includes magnificently furnished rooms depicting Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th centuries. My favourites were an enchanting 17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a perfectly preserved 17th century press. There’s a fascinating collection of paintings and antiques and regular exhibitions dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a charming museum with an authentic atmosphere – a must-see. EAT: Barbue d'Anvers A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar; the unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal) in aspic; and waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr
In these difficult days of no trave
Features continued 80 Lille a Feast
Gascony “God’s Country…” Ja
Road trip Gers In the Gers, it’s
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Top right: 14th century Armagnac To
Alambic Dinner Each year, some Arma
A land of officially beautiful vill
Practical info How to get there: Fr
Have wheels - will travel... Pas de
Picardy: Birds, plus beaux villages
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From here we decided to stop off at
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