a Brigadier General

a Brigadier General under Napoleon Bonaparte. Such was his reputation that when Swedish king Charles XIII died without an heir in 1818, Bernadotte was invited to take the royal job and today, his descendants still reign in Stockholm. Quite some career path! Wandering deeper into the town, my back to the Pyrenees, I stopped off to savour the sights and smells of Les Halles. This gastronomic hub has been completely renovated since 2017 and when I visited, the first phase of the project was open and clearly a popular venue with its wine bars, food stalls and escalators. This ultra-modern market hall is an essential stop for anyone who has bought a Pass Gourmand, a brilliant initiative that enables visitors to taste their way round the city in bite-sized pieces. More than 22 shops and food stalls throughout the city centre and within Les Halles serve some kind of iconic local flavour in return for a ticket. A sweet macaron, here. A date stuffed with foie gras there. And maybe a glass of Jurançon to wash it all down. Eat in, take away, or pack up your goodies for a gourmet picnic, perhaps with a view of the Pyrenees. Weather not to your liking? Not a problem if you drop by my last port of call, the unique Fabrique de Parapluies, a block away from Les Halles on the corner of Rue Montpensier and Rue Nogué. At the turn of the last century, shepherds would stop in Pau, grazing their sheep on the current Place de Verdun, en route to and from the mountain pastures for summer grazing. And here in Pau, they would catch up on

©Pau Pyrénées Tourisme Guilhamasse repairs to their traditional umbrellas, each one a lifelong companion which sheltered them from rain, sun and even lightning. Twenty years ago, Hervé Pando opened an umbrella workshop in Pau, and today his son Christophe is the last craftsman to hand-make traditional parapluies de bergers. Fashioned from double-thickness proofed cotton with nine robust ribs, the umbrellas are guaranteed not to turn inside out, and can be held aloft hands-free, thanks to a round beechwood handle that sits neatly in the shepherd’s pocket. The perfect accessory for any picnic – rain or shine – along the Boulevard des Pyrénées! 5 MUST-DO EXPERIENCES Follow in the footsteps of Henri IV Built in the 14th century, the lofty chateau was the birthplace of Renaissance king Henri IV in December 1553. The royal baby was rocked in a turtle shell cradle that is still on display. Open all year apart from 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. Adults 7€. Free shuttle bus from Place de Verdun car park. www. chateau-pau.fr Stroll the Boulevard des Pyrenees Step back into the Belle Epoque when Pau town was a popular winter resort with wealthy travellers for its clean mountain air, multiple amenities, and elegant villas. Built from 1894 to 96, the Boulevard stands on a viaduct with large arcs supported by 49 piers. Enjoy a taste of the Béarn with a Pass Gourmand Choose from 45 local food specialities from 22 craft producers in the Halles and around the town centre with a Pass Gourmand, just 8€ for 6 tickets, 15€ for 12. Eat on site or take away. Includes macaroons and chocolate, cheese and Jurançon wine. Discover the French soldier who became King of Sweden Musée Bernadotte is housed in the birthplace of the young soldier who became King of Sweden in 1810. An