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The Villages If, like me, your idea of an authentic French village is the sight of ancient trunk-twisted olive trees, plane tree-lined squares, medieval fountains, sun-kissed old stone houses mellowed by the passing centuries, delicate bell towers, and azure blue skies, then the Golfe de Saint-Tropez is your kind of place too… Saint-Tropez The former tranquil fishing village can get busy as there is only one main road that winds around the bay, so leave the car behind and take a boat (Bateaux Verts), from either Sainte-Maxime, Marines de Cogolin, or Port Grimaud. The journey takes around 15-20 minutes, no traffic jams and no parking needed! Wander Saint-Tropez’ pretty streets, ogle the super yachts, visit the town’s iconic tower and best of all, discover the local history through its food on a Gourmet tour with Beyond the wine. Follow in the footsteps of your guide Sonia, a specialist in local produce, to discover the delicious surprises she has selected for you. At the market, piles of vegetables and fruit look like still life paintings. The smell of truffled Brie, and of 36-month-old goat cheese made by writer, poet and legendary farmer Loïc de Saleneuve, and of garlic infused olives, chestnut spread and nougat, assails your senses. You can’t visit Saint-Tropez and not eat a Tarte Tropézienne and the tour includes a stop at the mythical patisserie where the cake was born and where Tartes of every size and flavour are displayed like jewels in a cabinet. Enjoy with a glass of local pale rosé. Resistance is futile. Want a culture fix? There are several museums including the lovely Annonciade, a former 16th century chapel where artist Paul Signac lived. Arriving in 1892, and mesmerised by the Saint-Tropez © S. Oliver visitgolfe.com Loïc de Saleneuve, goat cheese farmer extraordinaire Sainte-Maxime © S. Oliver visitgolfe.com © Tarte Tropezienne B&B Maison du Prince, Grimaud landscape, he encouraged other artists, including Henri Matisse, to join him here and you can see many of their paintings in the museum. Don’t miss a visit to the fun and fascinating Musée cinéma et gendarmerie. Sainte-Maxime Once a quiet fishing village, its fortunes changed when the railway line arrived in the 1800s creating what was known as the Route des Pignes, the Route of the Pines, named after the umbrella pine trees that grow in profusion here. Inspired by the success of Nice in attracting hordes of tourists, Ste-Maxime developed its tourism offer with a casino and holiday apartments. The railway line is now gone. Destroyed during WWII, it was considered too expensive to repair and replace but Ste-Maxime remains one of the biggest and most bustling towns in the area with year-round festivals, fetes and fairs. Take a guided tour to discover the history and architecture of Sainte-Maxime from the Tour Carrée built by monks, to the façade of the Palais des Sirènes to the palatial former home Léon Gaumont, pioneer of the motion picture industry in France. Ramatuelle Perched on a hill, the whole village of Ramatuelle, a former Roman outpost, is a listed historic monument. It’s a sleepy little village that’s full of surprises. In Place du Chateau there is no chateau, but ancient houses lean against each other for support, there are secret passages, cosy cafés and an innovative free tourist app that takes you on a treasure hunt. Like everywhere in this area, people are acutely eco-aware; cooking oil fuels the lawnmowers, and the council is creating a rain harvest system underground to water the plants. “It’s about sharing” says Bruno Caïetti from the tourist office “for everyone here, share and sustain - it’s a win/win”. 10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11
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