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Etel river cruise Oyster beds looking towards Quiberon peninsula Atlantic sunset from Hotel des Deux Mers South of Penthièvre, it fattens out sufficiently to accommodate holiday homes, walking trails and quiet beaches, as well as a peak-season railway, Le Tire Bouchon or ‘corkscrew’, which avoids the single road leading to Quiberon and all points seawards. Activity cranks up considerably in this upbeat little seaside town in summer as passengers flock to ferries for the popular holiday island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer and its smaller neighbours, Houat and Hoedic. I want to enjoy the wilder Côte Sauvage on the Atlantic side of the peninsula so I stay at the charming Hôtel des Deux Mers nestled in pine trees at Saint-Pierre-Quiberon. After a relaxed evening at Les Canailles, a barguingette in the village centre, I watch the sun set over the ocean and next morning walk the tide-washed sand before breakfast. An enchanting way to start and finish any day. In glorious summer sunshine, I could easily spend a few days exploring the area. The medieval town of Auray and the nearby river port of Saint-Goustan; Europe’s largest menhir at Locmariaquer beside the Golfe du Morbihan; and the ‘wild dunes’ from Gâvres to Quiberon, largest natural area on the Breton coast and classified Grand Site de France. But with limited time, I choose to explore the liquid thoroughfare that divides the Baie de Quiberon from Lorient to the west. Technically it’s a ria – or drowned river bed – stretching inland for 22 km but locals refer to the Etel river. Pick up one of the regular cruise excursions with Navix from the fishing port of Etel to see historic waterside communities such as Saint-Cado and experience tranquil creeks, salt marshes, and dramatic currents. A different kind of magic in an area already infused with myth and mystery. https://frenchcountryadventures.com/ We can help with: • Moving to France or Spain • Setting up and running a business • Help with VISA, residency and work permits and taxes • Legal advice and Insurance • Healthcare advice B +33 950 75 81 92 a +34 711 05 32 28 pleasehelp.eu k 70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71
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INGREDIENTS Serves 4 ¾ cup (200 ml
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