Tasting straight from

Tasting straight from the barrel at Domaine FrapinCellars Master Patrice PiveteauMysterious markings onsealed casks at MaisonGrosperrin – it’s all veryDa Vinci code!family have in their family tree one FrancoisRabelais (born circa 1483), the famousmedieval author and son of Anne-CatherineFrapin and Antoine Rabelais. The Frapin logoreflects their illustrious ancestor – a featherrepresenting Rabelais’ quill.My morning tour with guide Thomas includedseveral cellars, where I learned the differencebetween a wet and a dry cellar, it’s all aboutthe evaporation rate of the alcohol in thebarrels, known as the ‘angels’ share (up to 3%of the liquid), which is represented by a blackfungus that creeps over the walls. Wet cellarsmean more evaporation of alcohol creating amellow, softer taste; dry cellars create moreevaporation of water leaving a spicy, intensefinish. This was followed by a tasting session11 a.m. (apparently, this is the best time—because you have a fresh palette).“Sniff and say the first thing that comes intoyour head,” Thomas urged. “Erm, earthy?“ Ioffered, earning a smile. “Close,” said Thomas,“wet dog. It smells like a wet dog!”Of course, that’s not all it smells of - after all,this is a premium cognac we’re snuffling, butdeep inside the aroma is, Thomas assures me,a whiff of wet dog. And what’s more, this is agood thing “ very distinctive, an indication ofage and how the Cognac has developed overthe years.”FrapinThe ‘angels’ share blankets the walls at Domain FrapinIn a wet cellar at Domaine FrapinLater, cellars master Patrice Piveteau explainsthat Cognac is a sensory experience. “Whatdo you smell?” he says, passing me a glass ofFrapin VSOP. “Melon?” I suggest. “Candiedpeel,” he says, “not just melon. It’s never justorange or clementine; it’s spicy, aromaticnotes of orange.”“Cognac is almost like a condiment. It goesperfectly with cheese, not too strong though,maybe stilton or mature comté. Try it withRoquefort – mixed with a little salty butter,”he kissed the air at the thought. “It’s classicto serve it at room temperature – but you canchill it too! Keep it at 20 degrees for severaldays and then pour. The taste sensationexplodes in your mouth.”My tasting tour included a cocktail in theexquisite Chateau and a drop of theirpremium Cuvée Rabelais, which, at a shadeunder €10,000 per bottle, is definitely a tippleworthy of gods and goddesses.Find details of all their tours and moreinformation at cognac-frapin.comThe Cognac huntersCognac is, to some, what gold is to others. Andat Maison Grosperrin in Saintes, you can takea tour to learn how a small group of Cognacexperts ‘hunt’ for treasured Cognac. barrelsleft for decades in the cellars of farmhouses oraged in the sea, rare and unique vessels thatare coveted by connoisseurs around the world.Their fascinating tours explain the secrets ofageing and anecdotes about the origins of thebarrels of Cognac in their cellar, and includea tasting of some of the most remarkable andrare Cognacs in the world.Find out more and book a tour:cognac-grosperrin.com18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19