Secret France:A

Secret France:A beguiling mix of arts, gastronomy, cobbled streets and cotton candy-colouredsunsets await in Les Baux-de-Provence, says Janine Marsh.Les Baux-de-Provence,Les Alpilles, ProvenceView from the ruins of the chateau © Office de Tourisme des Baux-de-ProvenceSouth of Avignon, former home to the Popes,and a short journey from the enchanting townof Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, take the windingroads that wriggle between the rocky Alpillesmountain chain until you reach a secret village– Les Baux-de-Provence. A classified PlusBeaux Village (officially one of the prettiestvillages in France), this is one of Provence’smost beautiful hilltop villages. Carved into anarid white rocky plateau 245 m above sealevel, the small town is home to some twentyhistoric monuments dotted around its cobbled,car-free streets.The village perches below the great limestoneoutcrop upon which the lords of Baux builttheir vast chateau, perfectly summed up inthe words of a song by Italian folk rock singersongwriterAngelo Branduardi: ‘Dans sonchâteau le Seigneur des Baux prend la pluieau visage’ – In his chateau, the Lord of Bauxtakes the rain in his face.Climb to the highest point of this limestoneridge, and you’ll see what inspired the words– it’s like you’re at the top of the world andsat in the clouds though to be fair, rain is rarehere in this sun-kissed part of France. The10th-century chateau was partly dug into therock and is now in ruins, but the view fromthe ramparts is breath-taking. I’d go so far asto say that the view from Les Baux is one ofthe best in Provence, overlooking Arles and22 | The Good Life FranceLes Baux-de-Provence © Office de Tourisme des Baux-de-ProvenceThe Good Life France | 23