Built in the 16 th and

Built in the 16 th and 17 th centuries by wealthymerchants and nobles, they include the Hôtelde Lacoste, Hôtel de Malibran and Hôteld’Alfonce. Large mullioned windows, grandstone staircases and internal courtyards weretypical, and some have beautiful gardens.Today they make ideal spaces for culturalevents and boutiques as well as sought-afterprivate homes – in one, the Musée de VulliodSt-Germain showcases Pézenas’ history, whilein the Hôtel de Lacoste I visited a wonderfulsilk shop, complete with historic loom. Guidedtours of the town often include stops at hôtelsparticuliers, and during September’s EuropeanHeritage Days some are open to the public.The town was home to the formidableChristian knights, the Templars, althoughthey left less of a lasting mark. On Rue desChevaliers, on a building with an impressive,corbelled turret, a sign proclaims a ‘former17 th -century commandery built on the site ofthe 11 th -century Templar house’. Opposite, theimposing Église Collegiale Saint-Jean, largelybuilt in the 17 th /18th century, occupies partof the site of a complex built by the KnightsTemplar in the 12th century – head inside thechurch to admire the stained-glass windowsand magnificent organ.Although the medieval walls which oncesurrounded the old town no longer exist, youcan see an original gate, the Porte Faugères,an important remnant of the town’s defensivepast. Beyond it are the wider boulevards of the17 th and 18th centuries. Inside, the old town isnow pedestrianised but once carts would havetrundled through the medieval streets, whichtended to be crooked or irregular – look outfor a slanted doorway on the Hôtel d’Agde deFondousse; the arched stone surround wassharply angled to give access to the courtyardthrough an equally slanted passageway.I love spotting the ‘mascarons’ of Pézenas –keystones with a sculpted, half-relief face,dating from the 18 th -century on, representingthemes such as the four seasons, ancientgods and unusual figures. Over 100 of thesecharacterful faces watch passersby from thewalls of the tall townhouses.Hôtel de LacosteKnights Templar CommanderieMolière TownMascaronYou can’t talk about Pézenas withoutmentioning Molière, France’s celebrated17 th -century playwright and actor – indeed,it’s often called the ‘Molière Town’. So, itmay come as some surprise to hear that therevered wordsmith did not hail from Pézenas,although he did spend time here, under thepatronage of the Prince of Conti (then thegovernor of Languedoc, based in Pézenas).In the 1650s, Molière travelled throughsouthern France with his theatrical troupe.Pézenas was thriving and its wealthy residentsdemanded entertainment, so Molière stagedplays for the nobility and townspeople. Theinspiration for some of his famous charactersare said to be drawn from people he observedin Pézenas.Molière later moved to Paris where hiscareer flourished, but the town continues tocelebrate its connection to him, with statuesand plaques and performances throughoutthe year, including the Molière Festival inJune. The Scénovision Molière museum offersan interactive multi-media show; it’s on theupper floors of the tourist office, the HôtelPeyrat, which once housed the town prison.The tradition of theatre continues today,and the small but beautifully preserved 18 th -century Théâtre de Pézenas is one of theoldest in France.Although Pézenas’ political status declined inthe 17 th century when the governors moved toMontpellier, the area continued to thrive dueto its vineyards and Pézenas became a hub forthe wine trade.Old and NewAlongside Pézenas celebration of its heritage,it has also carved something of a niche foritself in the antiques trade. There’s somethingto delight every kind of brocanteur, fromfine furniture to flea market finds, delicatebedlinen, colourful 70s items, vintage clothing,huge stone urns for the garden and even anentire wooden and glass Art Deco shopfront –I was tempted to start a business just to use it,until I looked at the price tag!If this piques your interest, you may wantto coincide your visit with the twice-yearlyFoire à la Brocante (May and October). Thishuge antiques market attracts people fromfar and wide.62 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 63