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The Duchy has a bit of a fairy tale feel to it, enclosed behind high walls, the red and gold ducal flag flies from a tall tower when the Duke is in residence. There’s a vast courtyard with a pretty garden to one side, and all around are buildings of different epochs including an 11 th century keep and Tour of Bermonde, which was renovated by Violletle-Duc after it was damaged in the French Revolution (he also restored the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris, and the Citadel of Carcassonne). Climb the 135 steps of the winding staircase for a bird’s eye view over the town and surrounding countryside. There’s also a Gothic chapel and a dazzling roof of coloured tiles depicting the ducal crest which was added in the 1800s. The part where the family now live has a Renaissance façade and you can visit lavishly furnished rooms with red and gold upholstery, tapestries, paintings chandeliers, grand fireplaces and admire the family crest woven into an opulent carpet “ferro non auro” (iron not gold), indicating their warrior status. A guided tour will reveal the history of the Grand salon © Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard, Florence Gay Streets festooned with flowers and fauna Duchy and the family, including the feisty Duchess Anne, heiress to the Veuve Cliquot Champagne fortune, who was the first woman in France to get both a driving licence, and a speeding ticket when in 1898 she drove her car in a Parisian park at 15km per hour breaking the speed limit of 12km per hour! Market Day Around the Duchy winds a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that are lined with ancient mansions, some with domed towers (an indication of wealth in days gone by), and if you book a guided tour at the Tourist Office - you’ll be able to go inside private courtyards from the Middle Ages and days of the Renaissance. Uzès had a strong merchant economy for centuries and was a centre of textile and silk production in the 17th century - you’ll spot mulberry trees in the town (silkworms feed on their leaves), a reminder of the past. The lovely central square Place aux Herbes is a great place to take a break with its fountain and medieval arcades all around. It’s also home to a twice-weekly market (Wednesday and Saturday). Bordered by restaurants and bars, it’s a great place from morning to night when locals gather for aperitifs, to dine al fresco, and kids play in the square under the shade of plane trees in which fairy lights twinkle. The square host a vibrant calendar of events too including a truffle day, craft markets on Sundays, Christmas market, and medieval festival. In the enchanting Medieval Gardens, more than 450 plant species are grown, used for medicinal purposes in the Middle Ages - the The stunning medieval gardens - art, culture and magnificent plant displays guide told me they have a plant which was used to get rid of warts - which when rubbed with the leaves would drop off! Sculptures sit alongside lemon trees and madrigal plants, there are regular exhibitions, and you can climb the Kings Tower for panoramic views and to see the extraordinary medieval graffiti from a time when it functioned as a prison. There’s also a lovely café - and a refreshing liquorice and lemongrass herbal drink is offered as part of your visit. You can easily spend a couple of hours here and lose yourself in the lush verdant beauty of this ancient garden. The beauty of Uzès has long inspired artists 10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11
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