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L’Étang de Capelle, the lake and surrounding countryside are a haven for wildlife and nature pies and all the glazed tiles for the floors of the Popes’ Palace in Avignon, the last ceramic factory closed in 1974; but in 1983 the kilns were fired up again as the village made a concerted effort to bring the potters back. There are 15 now living in the village yearround; you can visit their workshops or get an overview of their work at Terra Viva (14 Rue de la Fontaine galerie-terrvaviva.com). The adjoining Musée de la Poterie Méditerranéene (muse-poterie-mediteranee.com) has a wonderful selection of examples of pottery from all over the Mediterranean, in a beautiful variety of glazes. East of Uzès, strange sandstone formations and quartzite quarries mark the environs of St-Victor-des-Oules, ‘of the posts’, another pottery village, this one specialising in stoneware (grès). Paths lead up to Mont Aigu, for scant ruins of a 5 th -century BC oppidum and superb views of the Cévennes to the west. Further east, the 12 th- century château in La Capelle-Masmolène was the summer palace of the bishops of Uzès. Lovely Lussan is 18km north of Uzès, but well worth the detour; a nearly perfect unspoiled medieval village perché below a 13 th century château. Near Lussan, the sheer gorge of the River Aiguillon, Les Concluses, makes a magnificent and easy walk in the summer Lussan © Andrea Jobst, DPUPG, Uzes-Pont du Gard Tourisme when the river is dry, with potholes (marmites) formed by the river, eagles’ nests and a remarkable steep and narrow portail that closes in on top. Leave your car in one of the car parks along the D643; the walk takes about 30 minutes. Extract from Languedoc- Roussillon, by Dana Facaros & Michael Pauls with Jane Falkner, published by Bradt (bradtguides.com) in paperback, £18.99 (ISBN 9781804692806) 16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17
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