Artists in Arles No

Artists in Arles No surprise then that this multi-layered city attracted the artistic eye of Vincent Van Gogh who spent his most productive spell here. The Dutch artist arrived on a cold winter’s day in 1888 in search of light and found so much of it that he painted 200 paintings and produced almost as many drawings and letters in just 15 months. Sadly none of Vincent’s paintings are on permanent display here, but it’s still spinetingling to follow in the artist’s footsteps and stand at the spots where he placed his easel. Download the self-guided trail from www. arlestourisme.com to find ten reproductions of his work, particularly atmospheric at night when you can appreciate his vision of La Nuit Etoilée from the banks of the Rhône and the illuminated canopy of Le Café ‘Le Soir’ in Place du Forum. After three psychotic attacks, one of which involved cutting off part of his ear, Van Gogh left the city in May 1889 for a sanatorium in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, but his presence infuses the city streets to this day. Other artists left a more tangible legacy. Pablo Picasso fell in love with the Réattu Museum of fine arts, modern and contemporary art that was launched in the 19th century with a donation of works by neo-classical painter Jacque Réattu. The collection is housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta and in 1971, Picasso donated 57 of his drawings to what became one of the first public collections of his work. Don’t miss the city’s only original Van Gogh – a letter written by Vincent to Paul Gauguin in 1889. The Musée Réattu was also the first French fine arts museum to have a photography department and the city has since become synonymous with photographic images. Visit any time from July through September to see photos on show in a variety of indoor and outdoor spaces as part of the International Photography Festival. Arles, Espace Van Gogh © Helen Wong Hsing © Grace Marshall 30 | The Good Life France

Tour Luma Adrian de Weerdt LUMA Most recent addition to the city skyline is LUMA Arles, an eye-catching art and culture centre on the site of a former railway siding. Designed by Frank Gehry, the 56-metre high twisted tower is made from recycled materials, rising from the Parc des Ateliers and visible from all over the city. Inside its wonky walls, experimental artists, scientists and thinkers of all kinds seek to challenge conceptions through exhibitions, accessible archives, and public events, not just around art and culture, but human rights, the environment, and research. Check out their programme at www.luma.org/arles and make time to wander the 4-hectare park, landscaped as a journey through the flora and fauna of the region. Some love it; others loathe it. But whatever your view on LUMA Arles, there’s no denying that this controversial building is just the latest phase in a city that has been pushing the boundaries for almost 2,000 years. Visitor information Visit www.arlestourisme.com to plan your trip and once in town, head for the Tourist Information Office on Boulevard des Lices to book themed guided tours and pick up self-guided trail maps. A Pass Liberté is valid for one month and gives access to four monuments/museums of your choice for 12 euros (concessions, 10 euros). Take a tour of Arles with Ophorus Tours The Good Life France | 31