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Spotlight on: Aisne The department of Aisne in Picardy is the ancient cradle of France. Its capital Laon was once also the capital of France, and it is the only place in the world where Champagne is produced - outside of Champagne. Discover a land brimming with historic cities, glorious countryside, picturesque villages and monumental cultural sites… Laon The great French writer Victor Hugo once said, “everything is beautiful in Laon.” Almost 200 years after his visit, he would recognise its Cathedral and winding streets of ancient buildings – a whopping 84 listed monuments – and surely feel the same way. This ancient city with its ramparts and stone gateways was the capital of France from the 8th to 10th centuries when Paris was still a village. Perched on a hill 180m high, the site is perfect for defence, and Queen Berthe au Grand Pied (the unlikely named Bertha of the Big Feet), mother of the great Charlemagne, made Laon her seat of government. It was only when Hugues Capet was made King in 987, that Paris became the capital. Laon 18 | The Good Life France
Laon Porte © Vincent Colin/ Agence Aisne Tourisme though, remained an important religious city and a centre of learning. The 800 year old cathedral of Notre Dame, a Gothic masterpiece, dominates the upper town. Flanked by two magnificent turreted towers, from which large stone oxen peer. They are a nod to the sturdy beasts who dragged the stones to build it and the local legend that when an exhausted oxen fell to the ground, a white ox was sent by God to help carry the stones. The façade is intricately carved and inside there are beautiful 13th century stained glass windows. The sound of monks chanting creates a spiritual atmosphere. Laon The Good Life France | 19
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