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The Treasures of Arles © David Juricevich 26 | The Good Life France
Listed by UNESCO for its architectural heritage, Arles offers an irresistible Mediterranean lifestyle at the gateway to France’s largest wetland. Gillian Thornton let herself go with the flow. Roman theatre, Arles There are many good reasons why I would love to live in Arles. The warm Provençal sunshine. That enviable Mediterranean lifestyle. And the irresistible buzz of art and architecture from ancient times to the present day. But there’s another reason. I’d really love to ask friends to ‘Meet me by the Roman Theatre at midday’ or ‘Catch up outside the Arena at 7 tonight’. Not many places can boast such monumental Roman meeting places as Arles in the heart of a 21st century city. Historic past – Roman legacy Northern gateway to the wetlands of the Camargue, Arles, in the department of Bouches-du-Rhône, stands on the right bank of the Rhône and was originally a Celtic city, later colonised by the Greeks. The Romans arrived in the 1st century AD, quickly expanding the city until it was home to some 50,000 people. More than 21,000 toga-clad citizens could watch high-octane combat in the vast amphitheatre of Roman Arelate, whilst just a short walk away across the paved streets, the theatre was the place for more intellectual entertainment. Local citizens have been meeting by these monuments ever since. In the Middle Ages, the 130-metre arena was redeployed as a fortified community, but today you can still sit in the ancient tiers and enjoy events such as the popular Course Camarguaises, or Bull Races. No bulls are harmed in this test of man versus bovine, but human competitors can expect a few sharp scratches if they try to snatch rosettes from the up-turned horns of the local black bulls. Too much excitement? Then buy a ticket for a summer concert or drama production at the Roman theatre, a chance to slip back in time, even without a toga. And Roman immersion doesn’t stop there. Explore the Baths of Constantine, close to the banks of the Rhône; visit the city’s well-stocked archaeological museum, the Musée Départemental Arles Antique; and stroll the tree-lined Alyscamps lined with Christian tombs. Couturier Christian Lacroix, who was born in the city in 1951, recalls happy childhood games amongst these ancient stones. The Good Life France | 27
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