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The wild wetlands of France Where white horses roam and pink flamingos flock… France’s largest wetland is much more than just marshland. Gillian Thornton explores this diverse landscape on foot and by boat, four wheels and four legs. Sunset over the Camargue and the still water of the lagoon turn slowly silver as the sky morphs through a palette of pastel blues and pinks, deep yellows and burning orange. Rosetinted flamingos sift the shallows in search of supper, whilst a sturdy coypu watches intently from the bank for an unsuspecting fish. It’s a magical moment for any lover of wildlife and open spaces, but particularly when seen from the back of a horse. Our leader turns his mount into a shallow lagoon and we trustingly follow in his wake, an enthralled band of riders mounted on the surefooted white horses of this legendary wetland. Situated at the heart of the Bouches du Rhône department in western Provence, the Camargue forms a triangle between the ancient Roman city of Arles to the north, and the two liquid arms of the Rhône delta. Le Petit Rhône to the west is a protected nature reserve that joins the Mediterranean at Les- Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, whilst Le Grand Rhône carries commercial river traffic from Lyon and Avignon to the west. Fly into Marseille – less than an hour’s drive from Arles – and the flat landscape of the delta doesn’t look overly inviting from the air, but seen from ground level, it’s a different story altogether. Covering more than 100,000 hectares with 75km of coastline, the Camargue embraces a wide variety of eco-systems that include salt plains and 32 | The Good Life France
freshwater marshes, salt marshes and lagoons, sandy beaches, paddy fields and dunes. Birdwatchers can find an incredible 237 species here, one-third of all those seen in Europe, and the closer you look, the more surprises are in store. Listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and famous for its white horses, black bulls, and pink flamingos, this glorious wetland is a must-do for anyone who likes big skies, wide horizons, and a wealth of soft-adventure activities. You can take a guided nature tour in a 4x4 or take a leisurely look from a horsedrawn carriage; book a birdwatching tour or enjoy the landscape from water level with a boat trip on the Petit Rhône. Visit the Arles Tourism website and Camargue Tourist Guides for inspiration and online booking. The Good Life France | 33
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