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For a lifelong rider like me, the chance to explore on horseback was top of my priority list, but you don’t need to be a gardian – or camarguais cowboy – to access this stunning landscape on horseback. Simply settle yourself in the comfortable saddle, take up the reins, and proceed at a leisurely pace. I shared the 2-hour Sunset Lovers experience from L’Auberge Cavaliere du Pont des Bannes in a mixed-ability group. Those of us with experience were able to enjoy a gallop behind the dunes, whilst the other mounts proceeded obediently at a stately walk, but most of the ride was conducted at a stately walk with eyes wide open. Speed doesn’t matter in a natural environment like this and the slower you go, the more you see. Take those famous flamingos. Pass any stretch of shallow water in the Camargue and you’ll almost certainly spot small groups of these improbable birds with their downturned beaks and ‘back to front’ legs. But for the full-on flamingo experience, book onto a guided tour to see Europe’s largest breeding colony - some 10,000 pairs who hatch their young every year at the protected Etang du Fangassier. Tours Aigues-Mortes Salt pans 34 | The Good Life France Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Saintes-Maries-de-la
un from April through September, bookable through Camargue Nature Guides along with a wide range of environmental excursions, all available in French and English. Expert guides Frédéric Bouvet and Christophe Giraud gave me a fascinating insight into local agriculture and wildlife, as we made our way by Land Rover and then on foot across salt plains dotted with tree stumps bleached by sun and salt. Finally we arrived at a viewing platform erected at a ruined 17th century customs post and, through powerful binoculars, were treated to a unique view of the quivering mass of pink feathers. An unforgettable Attenborough moment in anyone’s book! On the way back to base, there was another colourful bonus as Frédéric drove us past a sandbank to watch multi-hued bee-eaters flying in and out of nesting holes. The Camargue’s resident bulls may not be as eye-catching in colour but they’re certainly full of character. Smaller than their Spanish cousins, Camargue bulls have horns that point upwards rather than forwards and are used in the local course camarguaises or bull games, a popular family entertainment that is played out at arenas across the Camargue throughout the summer months. Aigues-Mortes © Ann Schmidt -Mer The Good Life France | 35
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