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The French BASQUE Country Gillian Thornton soaks up the vivid colours and vibrant culture of French Basque Country Wherever you choose to holiday in France, there’s no escaping the blue, white and red of the French flag, patriotically displayed outside town halls and other civic buildings. But head to the far-southwest where the green foothills of the Pyrenees meet the rolling surf of the Atlantic and you’ll soon see that the Tricolore has competition. The vivid red and white flag of Basque Country celebrates the culture and lifestyle of an unofficial country within a country. Or to be entirely accurate, within two countries, for the seven historic provinces of Basque Country straddle the Pyrenean mountain range. The four largest ones lie in Spain, whilst the other three make up the western half of France’s Department 64, Pyrénées- Atlantiques. Historically, the provinces share customs, culture and even a common language, Euskara. Now widely taught in local schools it bears no resemblance at all to French, or indeed any other language. Basque architecture is as distinctive as the language. Wooden timbers painted in traditional ox-blood red or forest green splash across whitewashed facades at every turn, giving a permanently upbeat feel to towns and villages, whatever the weather. But there’s a grander side to the Pays Basque too in the Belle Epoque mansions of elegant 34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35
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