Thankfully many of those Thankfully many of those glorious chateaux survived the destruction of wars and the French Revolution and a whole new legion of fans of the Loire Valley came along and it became especially popular with Parisians since, as it never ceases to surprise me, you can hop on a train in the centre of Paris and alight in Tours, the gateway to the Loire Valley, not much more than an hour later. Tours – at the heart of the Loire Valley Tours is central to the UNESCO-listed (World Heritage of Humanity) Loire Valley with its majestic chateaux which give it the nickname ‘the valley of kings’. Surrounded by tranquil countryside, verdant vineyards, historic towns and charming villages, Tours itself is well worth a visit and makes a great base if you only have time for a weekend or short visit. Within a radius of less than 30 miles are some of the Loire Valley’s most stunning castles – picturesque Chenonceau, and Clos Lucé where Leonardo da Vinci lived out his last years having ridden a donkey across the Alps from Italy, carrying his not quite finished Mona Lisa with him. And a stone’s throw away, Amboise is where da Vinci is laid to rest. Meanwhile Villandry has quite possibly the most marvellous gardens of the Loire, Ussé AKA the ‘sleeping beauty castle’ is magical. And then there’s the stunning Azayle-Rideau set on its own little island, plus the nearby charming, less well-known Chateaux de l’Islette where the great sculpture Rodin stayed with his muse and lover Camille Claudelle, and Saché where Honoré de Balzac wrote some of his greatest works, often walking there from Tours, where he was born. Those Summer nights In the summer months, don’t miss the fabulous Guingette de Tours. Just a few minutes from Guingette dancers the centre of the city, you’ll find it by the landmark Ferris Wheel. Nip down the big staircase and there you’ll enjoy a laid-back meal at possibly Tour’s most welcoming, and delicious, outdoor restaurant as you bask in the twinkling lights alongside the mighty Loire, France’s longest river. There’s something a bit magical about the guingette, the sort of place a grown up harry Potter would love. On summer nights, as the sky turns the colour of the ripest peaches you ever saw, the sun’s rays create a glittering kaleidoscope reflecting off silver disco balls, as birds swoop across the river and people tango with abandon with a dance teacher on hand to help novices. If that sounds all too energetic, simply pluck a book from the shelves and relax in one of the comfy chairs. Cathedrale Saint-Gatien ©_ADT Touraine – Jean-Christophe Coutand The food is outstanding. It’s happy food. You look around and people are smiling as they eat. Bursting with flavour, pesto, basil, the freshest and local products. The portions are generous, but you won’t want to miss a single mouthful! This bar and restaurant is perfect for a romantic night out, for solo travellers like me, for families and for friends. This little piggy went to market France excels when it comes to mouthwatering markets – but the one in Tours, known as the belly of Tours – stands out. It’s the place to go for fabulous fresh produce, from pastries to chocolate and cheese, vegetables, wine and a whole lot more. The covered market is absolutely delicious. I didn’t intend to spend a whole morning here but I was so transfixed by the displays and the produce, some of which I’ve never seen anywhere else – like Sainte Maure de Touraine 42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43
