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Collection DAUM wisteria and lily of the valley vase © Regine Datin being cutting edge, is firmly rooted in the 18th century. From here, walk through the old town and along the Grand Rue around which a maze of narrow streets are lined with shops, markets, and skinny houses with mullioned windows. Finish at Porte de la Craffe, a 14th century gateway that once formed part of Mediaeval fortifications that ran all the way around the town. It’s not possible to go inside, but the imposing exterior is well worth a look, with twin, grey turrets that look like a pair of pricked ears. As you wander, look out for the 19th century basilica, Saint-Epvre, built in a Neo Gothic style with bronze statues of angels playing horns encircling the belltower. The stained-glass windows are lovely from the inside. Treat yourself to a meal which looks like a work of art at La Maison dans le Parc. There’s a set, three-course dinner menu with a choice of three dishes. Let the restaurant know in advance if you’re vegetarian. Parc de la Pépinières © Pierre Defontaine Artge Art Nouveau – day 2 Art Nouveau, often described as the predecessor of Art Deco, began in Belgium and France in the late 19th century, and Nancy was one of the hotspots. Highly decorative, it was characterised by elaborate carvings and stained-glass windows, often with a botanical theme. Le Musée de l’école de Nancy is the best place to go to understand it. Inside, says art critic Brad Allan, the rooms look slightly warped, a little like a Gaudí building. “A mindbending highlight is a wondrous dining room where every detail expresses the flowing design motifs of the Art Nouveau movement – from the ceiling down to the floor and everything else in between. The visual impact of a room composed entirely of Art Nouveau artefacts is utterly staggering. As Art Nouveau expresses organic, entwining forms, the room seems to writhe before your very eyes, like a twisting interior forest. The massive light fitting seems to descend on a vine from the timbered ceiling as you look upon it. The wall coverings suggest a deep and mysterious woodland. A lone chair Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy © Lori & Tim Prosser 10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11
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