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Truly scrumptious “We eat rats here” a local told me with great glee. And they do. But these rats are made of chocolate. The rat is the symbol of Arras – its pronunciation sounds just like ‘rat’, the same word in French as in English. You can buy the chocolates in Patisserie Thibaud or Patisserie Jean Trogneux (the business started by the great grandfather of Brigitte Macron, wife of the French President), famous for their chocolate and macarons. This is a city where indulging is encouraged. Delicious regional dishes take centre stage and there’s an enormous choice of restaurants and bars and a thriving terrace scene on [pedestrianised) Place des Héros. Arras and beer go back a long way, the Saint-Vaast Abbey was one of the largest breweries in the Middle Ages. At l’Oeuf ou la Poule restaurant (don’t miss their signature chicken pie), a stone’s throw from the Belfry, you can pair local dishes with a great range of local beers. On Wednesday mornings there’s a marvellous market on Place des Héros and on Saturday mornings a huge market with more than 200 stalls which spreads over three squares. Gourmands will go gaga for the gastronomic delights of this city. Find loads more to see and do in Arras and Pas-de-Calais at: visitpasdecalais.com Town hall and belfry made of chocolate at the Maison Trogneux 20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21
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