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enchanting medieval towns with rampart walks, winding streets, and half-timbered buildings. I’m booked into La Villa Garenne, a stylish B&B in a 19th century property with individually themed rooms. Located on a narrow street leading down to the ramparts, the house is just 150 metres walk from the marina with a free public car park just up the hill and the station a 15-minute walk. With Paris only two hours away by train, Vannes makes an attractive choice for a city break with added coast. Tempting though it is to dive straight into the walled city – the Intra Muros – I head first through Place Gambetta to Quai Taberly beside the marina to visit the Tourist Office. Here you can pick up maps and walking routes as well as book guided visits or cruise excursions. The café-fringed semi-circle of Place Gambetta stands between the marina and Porte St Vincent, the town’s main gate. But hug the eastern side of the city walls to enjoy the full-on effect of those impressive ramparts. Built and rebuilt over several centuries, the existing walls and towers are largely from the 15th to 17th century and almost three-quarters of the fortifications still stand. Place Gambetta and the marina, Vannes Vannes harbour The eastern and northern sections are the most imposing, the view unfolding as you pass Château de l’Hermine, once owned by the Dukes of Brittany, and now standing proud above formal flowerbeds in the dry moat beside the Merle river. Keep to the pavement for a high level view, or take the steps by the Poterne Gate to access the restored 19th century washhouse and the lawns and floral displays of the Garenne gardens beneath those lofty ramparts. Place Henri IV, Vannes 'Vannes et sa femme' Galleried wash house, Vannes Vannes Turn left inside the Prison Gate behind the Joliette Tour to access the oldest part of the city walls, dating from the 3rd century. Or just follow the maze of winding streets. It’s not hard to imagine the medieval scene as you wander from one picturesque square to another beneath half-timbered houses and slate roofs. Place Henri IV beneath the Cathedral is a photographer’s delight, whilst Place des Lices near the ducal castle now hosts the Wednesday and Saturday market, but was once the town’s tournament venue. Close to St Pierre Cathedral with its tall spire is La Cohue, named after the Breton word for ‘market’. In the 13th century, stallholders plied their trades on the ground floor with the court of justice – and later, the Breton Parliament - upstairs. Today it houses the Museum of 70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71
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