St Goustan, Auray Fine

St Goustan, Auray Fine Arts whilst Château Gaillard, a grand 15th century stone house, is home to the Archaeological Museum. Every turn reveals some new surprise. Look out for the carved wooden heads adorning house number 13 in Rue St Solomon, and don’t miss ‘Vannes et sa femme’, two painted heads on the corner of Place Valencia, perhaps a medieval marketing exercise for a local shop. Refuel at one of Vannes’ many restaurants and then, if you’re feeling energetic, maybe follow the walking trail from the marina in Vannes to the harbour at Conleau. Or take a cruise excursion round the Gulf, perhaps with a stop on the Ile d’Arz or Ile-aux-Moines. For a different perspective on this tranquil inland sea, I drive out of Vannes and down the eastern shore towards Sarzeau and the beautiful Rhuys Peninsula that forms the Gulf’s Le Manoir de Kerbot southern boundary. Boat excursions leave from Port-Navalho at its tip for Vannes, Auray and the offshore islands of Belle-Ile, Houat and Hoedic, or you can simply watch the currents race through the narrow channel into the Gulf. Criss-crossed with walking and cycling trails, the Rhys Peninsula offers sheltered inward-facing beaches and a wilder, oceanfacing shore. I book a stay at the nearby Manoir de Kerbot, a 4-star country hotel with 9 bedrooms and spa, although sadly the gourmet restaurant is closed on Monday when I visit. But instead I enjoy a delicious al fresco fish supper on the ocean coast at Côte Plage in Le Roaliguen. Next morning, I head back towards the Atlantic to visit the Domaine de Suscinio. Another former home of the Dukes of Brittany, this magnificent moated castle with two huge towers was built in the late 14th century for Duke John IV on a large estate created by the family in the early 13th century. A state-of-the-art des res with large mullioned windows and wide fireplaces for maximum light and warmth, the Logis Est or ‘Duke’s House’ even included a second-floor steam room. The Logis Ouest or ‘Marvellous Lodging’ was added by Duke John V to house important guests, but over the centuries, the castle fell into disrepair. Restoration began in earnest in 1965 when the estate was purchased by the Department of Morbihan, and in 2023, Suscinio unveiled a brand new interactive visitor experience. The year is 1450 and, with the aid of video projections and reproduction furnishings, Isabella of Scotland, widow of Duke François I, guides visitors around the ducal lodgings to witness negotiations for the marriage of Anne de Bretagne. Eight-year-old daughter of Duke François II, Anne would later become Queen of France and thus bring Brittany into the French kingdom. Meanwhile, across the courtyard, Merlin the magician guides visitors through the Logis Ouest to explore the story of King Arthur and his reputed links with Brittany. Don’t miss the high level view over courtyard, coast and countryside from the northern curtain wall, nor the nature trail around the Suscinio marsh. Once a natural protection for the castle, today the wetland is itself protected as a nature reserve rich in waterfowl. Two other trails offer castle views, wildlife and historical background. Chateau de Suscinio, Golfe du Morbihan Craft a lasting memory with our unforgettable private bespoke day tours of Provence Marseille, Lavender fields, Luberon hill top villages, Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, in the footsteps of Van Gogh and more… www.idreamprovence.com Visit between April and September to take a leisurely row around the castle moat. And in July and August, enjoy a spectacular evening show every Tuesday and Thursday when 800 years of history are projected on the castle walls, followed by a spectacular firework display. The perfect finale to any ducal day out! Useful website: golfedumorbihan.co.uk 72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73