But when the spring

But when the spring came, they all left, and Nice became quiet again. Until the early 1920s, when wealthy Americans arrived and attracted artists of the day, including Picasso, Cocteau, Man Ray, and F. Scott Fitzgerald. And Nice became the place to go in summer, too. And it remains a year-round destination. What to see and do Nice is a city of the senses, sights, sounds, smells, touch and taste. Apollo Fountain, Place Masséna Baccarat Chandelier at the Negresco Hotel Chef Alain at Atelier Cuisine Niçoise It’s hard to do justice to the colours of Nice, the black and white checked Place Masséna with its fountain featuring the Greek Sun God Apollo, the marbled entrance to the winding cobbled streets of the old town where laundry flutters above the narrow alleys, lined with bright terracotta-coloured buildings, the glittering rays of the sun reflected on the waves, a hint of salt in the sea air, the sweet perfume of bougainvillea that tumbles from balconies and festoons walls, the harbour with its white-sailed yachts and colourful wooden boats - all under an azure blue sky - the intensity of the colours is striking. The buzz of the pedestrianised market of Cours Saleya (Tuesday to Sunday), an Italianate square lined with restaurants; the sound of birds singing in the trees along the promenade and of the waves crashing on the pebble beach; and the surprising sound of the noonday cannon. Yes, you read that right! In 1861, Englishman Thomas Coventry persuaded the city of Nice to fire a cannon from the hill of the Castle to mark the hour of noon. It was said Mr Coventry wished to remind his wife it was lunchtime, as she was often late returning from her morning walk, distracted by Nice’s many charms and also being a rather talkative woman—good story but… not true. Mr Coventry simply had a passion for chronology! In 1867, he handed over his cannon to the city; a decree was passed that it should continue to be fired at noon. These days it’s a firework you hear, but - it can still make you jump! Entry from the new town to the old town featuring magnificent trompe l'oeil marble walls Art and culture Nice has long been a source of inspiration for artists - Chagall, Renoir, Dufy, and many more have been captivated by the colour and light. There are multiple museums and galleries in Nice (second only to Paris), including the Musée Matisse, which features a collection of paintings spanning from 1890 to the gouache drawings that Matisse produced at the end of his life. The artist lived in Nice for 27 years and retired to nearby Vence, where he designed a chapel which he considered to be the greatest work of his life. For something unique - head to the Negresco hotel, a legendary landmark in the city, and the choice of the rich and famous since it opened in 1913 - including Queen Elizabeth II, James Dean, Grace Kelly and the Beatles. Either stay as a guest (very expensive), or indulge in a meal in one of the two restaurants and you’ll be able to view the hotel’s private art collection of more than 6000 pieces spanning five centuries, including a magnificent Baccarat chandelier with 16,000 crystals - a gift from Czar Nicholas II. A Taste of Nice Cours Saleya, lined with restaurants and, at the far end, the yellow house where Matisse once lived For me, one of the best ways to really experience a place is via the local cuisine, and in Nice, you really are in for a treat. Cuisine Nicoise is unique - a blend of Italian The mouth-watering lunch we prepared and Provençal flavours in traditional recipes handed down from generation to generation. At the Atelier Cuisine Niçoise, a cooking class in a 16 th century building in the old town, you’ll learn about, make and eat some of the traditional dishes. It’s food that ordinary people have eaten for centuries, not haute cuisine. It’s about the produce that comes from the land that a family could grow for themselves, fish for, forage or afford at the market. The vegetables came from the mountains: artichokes, chard, onions, olives, herbs, and garlic. These vegetables, along with salad and chickpeas, can be used in a variety of ways, including to make flour, which is used to make socca (a flatbread mixed with water, 12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13