salt, and olive oil).

salt, and olive oil). Piedmontese cuisine also had an influence, introducing potatoes for gnocchi. Meat was reserved for Sundays after mass, or for festival days. My lesson with Alain the chef included pan bagnat, a bread roll drenched in olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and filled with finely chopped seasonal vegetables, fresh broad beans, and basil leaves. Then we made a simple pastry for pissaladière, a caramelised onion tart decorated with salty anchovies and piquant black olives. Then gnocchi - chickpea flour, minced boiled potato and chard dough, hand-rolled into sausage shape and cut into small pieces (which locals refer to as ‘merde de chien!) served piping hot with pistou - a staple of the south - an olive oil, garlic and basil sauce. “There’s no such thing as too much olive oil”, said Alain as he poured with abandon. “Nicoise cuisine is like the people of Nice - colourful, generous, joyful.” I suspect the people of Nice also have olive oil in their veins. Stroll through the old town at dusk and the aromas of garlic and basil fill the air Maison de Marie Nice is all about food, and the city has so many restaurants that it gives Lyon (AKA the capital of gastronomy) a run for its money, and thanks to the seemingly endless sunshine, there are more tables outside than inside most of the year round. Restaurants with the Cuisine Nissarde label serve authentic cuisine of Nice. Locals Love: Maison de Marie, tucked away a tiny walk from Place Massena, through an arch which emerges into a stunning courtyard. There are no namby-pamby portions here, generous food, indulgent and epicurean - impossible to resist. “Food of the Gods”, my gourmet dad would have said with relish. Nice: roasted peppers, stuffed tomatoes, panises - chick pea chips, polenta, pisaladiere, green and black tapenade, chickpeas, meaty mushrooms in a pesto sauce and a few more things. Do not eat before you go there! Restaurant Felix - Belle Epoque glamour Don’t miss: Restaurant, bar (including a speakeasy!) Felix - stunning décor, think Belle Epoque deluxe, superb menu, great ambience and excellent cocktails (DJ sets on weekends). LE MOULIN SUR CÉLÉ Where to stay: The lovely Hotel la Villa is just a couple of minutes’ walk from the old town. Discover what to see and do in Nice and its surroundings: explorenicecotedazur.com Basket shop in the old town An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley Experience la France Profonde www.lemoulinsurcele.com A taste of Nice at Lu Fran Calin Love local: Lu Fran Calin in the old town where I can highly recommend the tasting platter if you fancy an authentic taste of 14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15