A Painter’s

A Painter’s Provence:In the Footsteps ofCezanne inAix-en-ProvenceIn the soft golden light of Provence, wherefountains gurgle beneath stately planetrees and the scent of lavender mingles withthe tang of ripe tomatoes at vibrant streetmarkets, Aix-en-Provence beckons. Thiselegant jewel of the south, once the capital ofProvence, offers not only elegant charm but arich cultural legacy shaped by its most famousson, says Janine Marsh as she explores thecity of Paul Cezanne.Paint your own memoriesof AixThe colourful, vibrant city wakes early, and by8 am, the markets are in full swing. The marketin Place Richelme bursts with colour andlife: pyramids of tomatoes, pots of tapenadeand crusty loaves still warm from the oven.Locals chat in Provençal-accented French,filling baskets with fresh produce, olives andgoat cheese. The scent of roasting chickensmingles with fragrant blooms at the next-doorflower market. In the evening, say locals Abiand Pierre, who run idreamProvence guidedtours of Provence, “this quaint square is theperfect spot for an aperitif and a popularplace for locals to gather and enjoy a sense oftogetherness and happiness.”Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s leafy central boulevard,is ideal for lingering. Moss-covered fountainsflow gently, and chestnut trees offer coolshade. The sun-warmed ochre walls of themagnificent baroque mansions are adornedwith sculpted facades, and tables spill outonto the pavement for diners to sit and watchthe world go by.Wander up the Cours Mirabeau and you’rewalking straight through Cézanne’s childhood.His parents ran a hat shop here once (thefaded sign can still be seen on the wall), andjust a few doors down is the legendary caféLes Deux Garçons, where Cézanne and hisfriend the writer Emile Zola used to while awaythe evenings. It’s currently closed due to a fire,but there are rumours it will reopen in 2026.It was at the nearby Mignet school that youngCézanne stood up to bullies to defend Zola,who repaid him with an apple. Some say it’swhat inspired the humble fruit to becomeone of Cézanne’s obsessions, appearingagain and again in his still life paintings. Thechurch where Cezanne was baptised a monthafter his birth in 839, the town hall wherehe married French artist’s model Hortense,and the modest apartment on rue Boulegon(marked by a plaque) where he died on 22October 1906. There are memories on everyPlace Richelme at night18 | The Good Life France Market in Place RichelmeThe Good Life France | 19