A Painter’s Provence:

A Painter’s Provence: In the Footsteps of Cezanne in Aix-en-Provence In the soft golden light of Provence, where fountains gurgle beneath stately plane trees and the scent of lavender mingles with the tang of ripe tomatoes at vibrant street markets, Aix-en-Provence beckons. This elegant jewel of the south, once the capital of Provence, offers not only elegant charm but a rich cultural legacy shaped by its most famous son, says Janine Marsh as she explores the city of Paul Cezanne. Paint your own memories of Aix The colourful, vibrant city wakes early, and by 8 am, the markets are in full swing. The market in Place Richelme bursts with colour and life: pyramids of tomatoes, pots of tapenade and crusty loaves still warm from the oven. Locals chat in Provençal-accented French, filling baskets with fresh produce, olives and goat cheese. The scent of roasting chickens mingles with fragrant blooms at the next-door flower market. In the evening, say locals Abi and Pierre, who run idreamProvence guided tours of Provence, “this quaint square is the perfect spot for an aperitif and a popular place for locals to gather and enjoy a sense of togetherness and happiness.” Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s leafy central boulevard, is ideal for lingering. Moss-covered fountains flow gently, and chestnut trees offer cool shade. The sun-warmed ochre walls of the magnificent baroque mansions are adorned with sculpted facades, and tables spill out onto the pavement for diners to sit and watch the world go by. Wander up the Cours Mirabeau and you’re walking straight through Cézanne’s childhood. His parents ran a hat shop here once (the faded sign can still be seen on the wall), and just a few doors down is the legendary café Les Deux Garçons, where Cézanne and his friend the writer Emile Zola used to while away the evenings. It’s currently closed due to a fire, but there are rumours it will reopen in 2026. It was at the nearby Mignet school that young Cézanne stood up to bullies to defend Zola, who repaid him with an apple. Some say it’s what inspired the humble fruit to become one of Cézanne’s obsessions, appearing again and again in his still life paintings. The church where Cezanne was baptised a month after his birth in 839, the town hall where he married French artist’s model Hortense, and the modest apartment on rue Boulegon (marked by a plaque) where he died on 22 October 1906. There are memories on every Place Richelme at night 18 | The Good Life France Market in Place Richelme The Good Life France | 19