Pierre, foundress of the

Pierre, foundress of the Benedictine Sister’sMontmartre community. The first sistersparticipated in the prayer of adoration on 1August, 1885 and ever since, pilgrims havecome from around the world to participate.A spiritual stayJust a few feet away from Montmartre’svibrant cobbled streets and squareslined with gift shops, historic restaurants,museums and bars, the guest house has170 beds (dormitories and bedrooms) in agrand building attached to the Basilica.Rooms are available to those who wish topray, visit as part of a pilgrimage and join inthe eucharistic adoration, day and night. Itis a unique experience for the faithful andthe spiritual. I booked a room via the onlinereservation site (I recommend you book inadvance), and received confirmation a fewweeks later.As hotel rooms in Paris go, it’s cheap, but ifthat’s what you’re looking for, this place isnot for you. The whole point of staying hereis to take part in the prayer relay and join inthe night-time adoration, spending at leastone hour of prayer or silent contemplation, acustom that has been in place non-stop for140 years (even during wartime). When youbook to stay at the Sacré-Coeur hôtellerie,you enter into an unwritten agreement thatmust not be broken.Montmartre, bustling and vibrant, just steps from the tranquil BasilicaWhen you book in at the reception desk,you’re directed to a whiteboard to mark theprayer hour of your choice between 11pm and7am. I noticed that the 11pm shift straightafter 10 O’clock Mass seemed to be verypopular! I chose the 5am shift, dropped mysuitcase off in my room and returned to thestreets of Montmartre to soak up the sights.The receptionists speak enough English tohelp you if you don’t speak French, and thereare written notes in the rooms explaining theprayer ritual in English and French. You canorder an evening meal and breakfast for asmall additional fee. It’s simple fare but a greatway to meet your fellow guests who come herefrom all around the world - pilgrims, friends,school groups, solo, young, old, believers, andnon-believers who are interested and willingto participate and pray in their own way, if notthe traditional way.Before you take your place in the church,you’re invited to a lecture by the nuns to learnmore about the church and the Catholicreligion, though it’s not obligatory. You’re alsoinvited to the 10 O’clock mass. The singingof hymns by a choir with voices like angels,the haunting notes from the huge pipe organ,itself a national monument, and the chantingof prayers combined with the most incredibleacoustics are goosebump moments, whetheryou believe or not.When the Mass ended, the last visitors left,and the grand doors were closed. The churchfell silent. I headed to my room for a few hoursof sleep.Overlooking the Basilica’s private garden, theroom was small and sparse but comfortable,consisting of a single bed, desk and chair,shower and sink, and a simple crucifix onthe wall. Loos are dormitory-style in a block.When the alarm went off at 4.30 am, I wassurprisingly alert, thanks to the sense ofadventure and unusualness of the situation.I tiptoed along the deserted, dimly lit,noiseless corridors, and crossed a secretpassage to enter directly into the hushedchurch in which there were three other peoplesitting silently. The only sound was the windwhich howled around the top of the hill. Takingphotos in the church is prohibited, but it isextraordinarily beautiful in the dead of night,the ceiling above the altar—one of the largestmosaics in the world—lit by flickering candles.I thought that an hour of silent meditationwould be difficult, but it passed so quickly inthe peaceful silence of the cavernous churchthat I was startled to realise that an hour anda half had gone by as I let my mind wanderto those I have lost, my mum and dad, mysister-in-law and father-in-law, and I thoughtof friends who are suffering from illnesses andhoped for them to find peace.It was a unique, spiritual, strangely serene andcomforting experience, and a very unusualway to discover authentic Paris.Find out more about the Basilca of Sacré-Coeur: sacre-coeur-montmartre.com38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39