MacaronsPretty

MacaronsPretty pastel-coloured macarons – made withegg whites, ground almonds and sugar andsandwiched with ganache – have long beenin vogue. When the iconic Maison Laduréeopened in New York in 2011, queues formedaround the block. The Parisian branch of thepatisserie had developed a cult followingthanks to their stylish interiors and, of course,their macarons, which were said to haveinspired the spring collections of 2013’s NewYork Fashion Week.Paris-BrestA crème-filled pastry honouring an intensivesporting event reads like a juxtaposition, butthis is precisely how the famous Paris-Brestcake came into being.In 1891, Pierre Giffard, a sports journalist andeditor of Le Petit Journal newspaper, wrote LaReine Bicyclette – a four-page article on thevirtues of cycling. That same year, he foundedthe Paris-Brest bicycle race, totalling 1,200km of road from Paris to Brest in Brittany andback again. 200 racers participated in what isnow considered to be the oldest cycling racein the world (today up to 8000 riders takepart in the race held every four years), andforerunner to today’s Tour de France.In 1910 Giffard asked pâtissier Louis Durandfrom Masions-Laffitte near Paris to concocta pastry in the race’s honour. Durand tookinspiration from the bicycles themselves.He piped and baked a wheel of chouxpastry, which he then halved and filled withhazelnut crème mousseline – a velvetyblend of vanilla crème pâtissière, hazelnutpraline and whipped butter – which hepiped with a fluted tip, possibly to evoke thebicycle spokes.The Paris-Brest pastries were an immediatesuccess, not only for their delicious sweetnutty flavour but also because of their highcalorie content – which is something thoseof us not racing 1,200 km should dare thinkabout. Legend goes that the finishing racerswere showered in pastries as they crossedthe finishing line, the perfect reward for avictorious finish!A moment of creative innovation resulted inone of the most beloved pastries in France,spreading beyond the cycling communityand now devoured worldwide – although theoriginal recipe still resides in Masions-Laffitte.These iconic “Paris style” sandwichedmacarons do not indicate their humble origins.Some speculate that the almond biscuitscame from the Middle East. According toone theory, in the 16th century, Catherine deMedici brought macarons with her from Italywhen she came to marry French King Henri IIin 1559. At some point, however, the macaronbecame a national treat, popping up inPicardy, Ardèche, the Basque Country, Saint-Emilion and Nancy as the regional “speciality”.That said, Maison des Soeurs in Nancy mayhave the final say. In the 18 th century, two nuns,Marguerite Gaillot and Marie Morlot, lived inthe city’s abbey until the revolution when adecree abolished religious congregations. Thenuns managed to escape by finding sanctuarywith a local doctor and sold macarons topay for their keep, becoming “the macaronsisters”. The recipe was passed down throughMarie’s niece and hasn’t changed in those 230years since.Unlike modern macarons, these are palebrown and cracked across the surface. Itwasn’t until 1930 when Parisian pâtissierPierre Desfontaines – incidentally a cousinof the Ladurée founder – sandwiched themwith ganache. Flavours and fillings followed,leading to our modern international craze ofthe macaron as haute patisserie. All thanksto the sharp wits, and some could say goodfortune, of two nuns claiming asylum.Three of France’s most decadent andfamous pastries came about because of –what seems to be – fortuitous timing, butreally, I think it’s because the French simplyunderstand their patisserie. The kouignamann, the Paris-Brest and macaronsare completely different specimens, butaltogether, they represent a refined palateand a dedication to a form of art.And this is the reason why France would takehome the pastry gold – every time.46 | The Good Life FranceThe Good Life France | 47