he was away organising

he was away organising the King’s finances. Philippe, who had inherited the ruin, proved to be an excellent project manager, ensuring masons, carpenters and workmen were on site at the right time. Most deliveries were transported by river, which is why castles were almost always built by a river - for instance the roof slate came from Anjou (around 30km away). By 1525 the castle’s construction was complete. Gilles paid homage to King Francois by having his initials and symbol - a salamander - carved into the walls. Alas Gilles and Philippe never got to enjoy their dazzling new home. Philippe’s cousin Jacques de Semblançay, who was another Treasurer to the King, was ordered to send a huge amount of money to the King’s Marshall, Lautrec, to fund a military campaign. The money went missing and though there was no evidence of wrongdoing by either man, 82-year-old Semblançay (who had a reputation for honesty and had served several Kings of France) was hanged for corruption. Gilles knew the King would come for him and fled in 1527, and died in 1529. Despite Philippe pleading her innocence, the King seized the unfinished castle and gave it to the Captain of his Guard. In places you can see carvings begun and doomed to be forever unfinished. Despite being incomplete, the castle is a work of genius, elegant but with an intimate feel of a home rather than a showcase. For its day it was incredibly innovative. Until then, spiral staircases outside were the norm for castles, but Azay-le- Rideau’s staircase is inside, and leads straight from landing to landing, with the direction reversing on each floor. Abandoned after the French Revolution, the castle was sold on, and today is under state ownership. It is one of the dreamiest jewels of the Loire Valley. The rooms are furnished sumptuously with tapestries, paintings and furnishings. In 1950 the river was widened, which slowed down the current and created a water-mirror effect, reflecting the castle’s knockout beauty in the motionless water. A salamander, the emblem of King Francois I, carved above the fireplace in the salon The castle kitchen Recent renovations revealed some of the chateau’s secrets, for instance the practice of bulrush matting for the walls, a tradition spotted by an eagle-eyed historian whilst examining a 16th century painting. The mats lined the walls keeping the rooms warm in winter, cool in summer, and they also lined the floor. It was believed that the smell of the reeds, combined with herbs, expelled bad moods, cleansed the air and helped control fleas! Philippe’s bedroom is now adorned with hand plaited bulrush mats and smells divine. The Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau is one of the most charismatic, captivating and covetable of all the Loire’s enchanting castles. Back view of the chateau Top tips for your visit to the Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau • From mid-July to the end of August, a son et Lumière (sound and light show) takes place at the castle (19h-23h). In 2025, to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the castle’s construction, there will be 24 special theatrical performances with a theme depicting the visit to the Chateau of King Louis XIII in 1619. It is impossible not to ‘ooh’ and ‘ah’ at the beguiling sight of the fairy-tale castle seemingly floating on water, with its reflection shimmering in the moat, perfectly still except for ripples caused by a dipping dragonfly, a lazy fish or an amorous frog looking for company. • Visit from the end of November through December to see the chateau dressed up to the nines for Christmas, its rooms filled with enchanting decorations (with a different theme each year). • Relax in the secret garden filled with seasonal flowers and herbs in front of the chateau. • Take a break in the lovely town, there are several excellent restaurants, and the local wine is superb. The magnificent local Touraine vineyards produce dry whites, sweet wines, reds, rosés and sparkling wines as well as Azay-le-Rideau’s little known white wine, Chenin. There’s evidence that vines have been grown here since Gallo-Roman times and the wines of Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau reflect the centuries of savoire-faire. touraineloirevalley.com; azay-le-rideau.fr/en 78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79