launched the wine trade

launched the wine trade with England. Demolished in the mid-19 th century, Bergerac’s riverside castle allowed room for the quay we see today. To find out more, visit Dordonha, an excellent free heritage centre that takes its name from the Occitan name for the river. One of Dordonha’s two permanent exhibition areas covers the development of Bergerac, the other is an exhibition of delightful bronze figures bequeathed in 2004 by the late Italian sculptor Costi who fell in love with the town. And how could you not? of Cyrano. A painted one gazes longingly up at an effigy of his secret love Roxanne in the church window, whilst in nearby Place de la Myrpe, the poet’s likeness is fashioned in stone, but frequently devoid of his nose! Cyrano in Place de la Myrpe © Gillian Thornton Espace Vin, Quai Cyrano © Gillian Thornton © Gillian Thornton Cloister at Quai Cyrano, a peaceful spot for winetasting Buy by the glass or bottle at vineyard prices and if hunger beckons, order a platter of charcuterie and cheese to enjoy inside, on the first-floor riverside terrace, or in the ancient cloister at the rear which also stages a programme of free concerts. For a few euros more, you can tour the interactive Cyrano exhibition for the story of the play and the real man who inspired it. Cyrano gazing lovingly! © Gillian Thornton Bergerac’s historic centre is a delight, compact and foot-friendly with buildings of white stone jostling for space beside brick and timber ‘colombage’ facades. Head towards the river and you find not one but two statues Not surprisingly, Bergerac’s Tourist Office and quayside both take their name from Rostand’s play. One of the most impressive tourist offices you will find anywhere, the Quai Cyrano building overlooks the historic quayside and combines a large visitor information centre and an upstairs Espace Vin offering free tastings of wines from around 150 local winemakers. Gabarre cruises leave from the quay across the road, a gentle pootle accompanied by a bilingual commentary that reveals not just the development and activity of the port, but also the flora and fauna of the river. The Dordogne is the last river to welcome all eight European species of migratory fish, and bird life too is abundant. I’m thrilled to spot a kingfisher, nesting geese, and black kites on the wing. Situated in the south of the Dordogne department, Bergerac is surrounded by vineyards, so I take the opportunity to indulge in a little vineyard tourism. En route though, I stop first to explore Château de Bridoire in Ribagnac, just south of Bergerac. Known locally as the ‘Castle of Games’, this picturesque property lay abandoned for more than 30 years, its once-fine interiors ruined and pillaged before it was bought in 2011 by the parents of current owner Alice Guyot, who lives here with her young family. © Pays de Bergerac, Marie Cécile Grasseau Walk through more than 15 rooms, right up to the attic beneath massive roof timbers, to appreciate the ongoing restoration. Along the way, you can play a variety of indoor games before heading outside for giant outdoor play equipment and a summer maze, plus a wealth of cute farm animals. Bridoire lies in the heart of the vineyards and if you talk to any local about wine, it won’t be long before you hear about Les Cinq Couleurs de Bergerac - Red, White, Rosé, Medium Sweet (Moelleux), and Dessert wines (Vins Liquoreux). The Vineyards of Bergerac and neighbouring Duras together produce 17 wines awarded Appellation d’Origine Protégée status, across seven Grands Terroirs. Think vintages like Bergerac, Pécharmant, Rosette and Monbazillac. 32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33