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Marseillan in the department of Herault, Occitanie (formerly known as Languedoc Roussillon), is a nautical paradise where Noilly Prat is produced, and life is lived at a gentle pace says Karen Tait. Marvellous MARSEILLAN Every summer, the sleepy southern port of Marseillan erupts into a riot of colour and noise for the annual joutes nautiques. Water jousting is taken very seriously in this corner of France. Quayside restaurants fill with enthusiastic spectators, while others perch along the harbour edge, legs dangling over the water, cheering loudly for their teams. Distinctive jousting boats replace the usual fishing vessels and pleasure cruisers, BBQs give off smoky aromas of local grilled fish, and music and lively commentary blare from tannoy speakers. It’s an experience not to be missed. The same could be said of Marseillan itself. Easily overlooked compared to more famous neighbours such as Sète, Agde and Montpellier, not to mention the Riviera’s flashier resorts, this pretty port has a quieter charm. Life moves at a gentler pace here - apart from festival season, of course - with the soft golden Mediterranean light reflecting off the calm waters and illuminating the pastel façades of the buildings. This is not a destination for must-see attractions, but somewhere to unwind slowly, enjoying morning markets, long lunches, afternoon swims and evening strolls along the harbour. Early mornings are particularly atmospheric. Fishermen unload the day’s catch while locals sip coffee and chat as the town gradually awakens. By evening, the harbour becomes a lively social hub, tables spilling onto the quayside as the scent of grilled seafood fills the air. Reflections shimmer on the water and there’s a relaxed buzz in the air. Taste notes Although Marseillan feels like a quintessential seaside port, it actually opens onto a vast coastal lagoon. The calm, nutrient-rich waters of the 75km² Étang de Thau provide ideal conditions for oyster and mussel farming. Freshly harvested shellfish can be enjoyed in rustic seafood shacks along the lagoon’s edge or in harbour restaurants, ideally paired with a chilled glass of local Picpoul de Pinet. © Karen Tait 36 | The Good Life France © Karen Tait The Good Life France | 37
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