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Spotlight on BREST Rudolf Abraham Set at the mouth of the River Penfeld and overlooking the Rade de Brest - a vast natural bay providing enough safe anchorage to accommodate an entire fleet - Brest is both the capital of Brittany’s Finistière region, and the second largest naval base in France, after Toulon. Rudolf Abraham explores and discovers there’s plenty to enjoy in Brest. Brest is not your typical Breton town, brimming with pretty half-timbered houses (head to nearby Quimper for a suitably splendid dose of these). Aside from the stupendously impressive castle, Brest is almost entirely modern - having been more or less completely levelled by Allied bombing in WW2. But it’s a town with stacks of character, and plenty of culture - think an unexpected mix of naval heritage, urban regeneration and a sprinkling of surfy aesthetics - and there’s more than enough in and around Brest to fill a few days of exploring, with plenty of delicious local seafood and other good Breton fare, from street food to Michelinstarred fine dining. It might be set towards the far-flung western tip of Brittany, but Brest is a still a doddle to reach from the UK, just 4 hours from Paris by train, or 12km from Brest Bretagne Airport. More enjoyably, I took the ferry, travelling overnight to Saint-Malo with Brittany Ferries, and continuing by train via Rennes - arriving in Brest just in time for lunch. What to see and do in Brest The Château de Brest sprawls above the left bank of the River Penfeld - enormously imposing, it will probably leave you wondering why you haven’t seen photos of it plastered all over the place. One reason is that at the centre of the massive castle walls, stand the rather handsome buildings of the Maritime Prefecture of the French Navy - so photos pointing in that direction are prohibited. Never mind, there are plenty of other parts of the castle to snap at. The Romans built a fort on the site of the present Château - a section of Roman walls Wooden statues at the Musée National de la Marine © Rudolf Abraham 42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43
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