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Foodies will enjoy the fabulous restaurants in the town and gourmet shops such as the Martin-Pouret boutique. The company has been making vinegar since 1797. Renowned as among the finest in the world (they supply the Presidential Élysée Palace), the vinegars are made from wines and matured for up to 20 years (you can take a tasting here). Beyond the city, the best way to explore the enchanting villages and historic sites is by car. East of Orléans, on the banks of the Loire River, Saint-Jean-de-Braye is home to the Campanaire Bollée bell foundry museum showcasing the legacy of the Bollée family, master bellmakers since 1715. It was an honour to meet retired 8 th generation master bellmaker Dominique Bollée who explained “we made 35,000 bells for cathedrals all over the world, including Notre Dame de Paris and the Ivory Coast.” He encourages visitors to book an appointment directly or visit on Fridays when the museum is open to the public www.tourisme-orleansmetropole.com Nearby Combreux, a picturesque and wonderfully preserved old village that was a key transit port between the Loire river and the Orléans canal in the 19 th century, is well worth visiting. Take a walk to discover the bargemen’s houses, the canal controller’s house, the 1841 lock keeper’s house, and quaint little bridges that criss-cross the canal. Take a break at the delicious Auberge de la Marine restaurant in an 18th century building, you’ll thank me for this top tip! Around Orléans, other picturesque villages and towns worth exploring on leisurely walks or by bike include Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire (the historic port of Chambord), Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire with its Romanesque abbey, the medieval town of Beaugency, and the troglodyte village of Trôo. You can’t go to the Loire Valley and not visit at least a few chateaux. Close to Orléans, the world-renowned Château de Chambord is a must-see. A crowning achievement of Renaissance architecture, King Francis I transformed what was a simple hunting lodge into an exquisite and very expensive Campanaire Bollée bell foundry museum © Jeremy Flint Combreux, a step back in time to a boatmen’s village of the 19th century © Jeremy Flint Chateau de Chambord Other-wordly sound and light show at the Chateau de Beaugency © Jeremy Flint masterpiece with a double-helix staircase said to have been designed by his friend Leonardo de Vinci. But there are also many charming, less well-known castles to discover such as the Chateau de Beaugency whose origins date to the 11th century. Once home to the ‘Bâtard d’Orléans’ and companion of Joan of Arc (who stayed at the castle), it has been transformed by its current owners, Anne- Sophie Acomat and husband Jérémie Bellot, into a modern digital arts centre featuring a mesmerising, other-worldly light and sound show. L’idée restaurant in the village is worth seeking out. Another under the radar visit is the Château de Meung-sur-Loire, one of the oldest and largest castles in the region. Built in the Middle Ages, this handsome monument was the prestigious residence of the bishops of Orléans for centuries until the French Revolution. It’s a great visit for the whole family with underground passages, animated dragons, furnished medieval and 18 th century style rooms, and landscaped gardens. Finally, the Château de Cheverney is one of the most sumptuously decorated châteaux in France with stunning paintings, tapestries and furniture. The “King’s bedroom” is lavishly opulent though no king ever slept there. But building a castle required the King’s permission - and with it came the requirement to always The Chateau de Cheverney is one of the most sumptuously decorated castles in France © Jeremy Flint keep a bedroom available for his majesty at all times - the bedroom at Cheverney is still ready! Allow time to visit the gorgeous gardens which are in constant bloom - the 500,000 tulips in late spring are highly recommended! tourisme-orleansmetropole.com/en/ In Orleans: Le Brin de Zinc - Serving classic French food with a great atmosphere, the speciality of tender duck cooked in a pot is delicious! Chez Eugène serves modern French cuisine full of flavour. Dionyses - French gastronomy with fresh home-cooked products such as wild boar. The Novotel Orleans Central Gare Hotel is the perfect base, just 4 minutes from the train station and an easy walk to the city centre. Eurostar from London to Paris and train to Orleans. 50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51
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