The local tram system is

The local tram system is regular and reliable, but the city centre is very walkable too. Buy a Pass Nantes for free access to public transport as well as a wealth of must-see sites for 24, 48 or 72 hours. Day One First thing I do is pick up the Green Line in the city centre. Not a bus or tram network but a coloured line painted on the pavement to link the eclectic mix of artworks that make up The Permanent Voyage. Every summer since 2012, this trail is supplemented in July and August by Le Voyage à Nantes, a temporary outdoor exhibition of new artworks. There is something here for everyone. A suited gentleman stepping sideways off a plinth; a green urban jungle in a once rundown courtyard; and a stone beaver on ancient masonry. Look out for almost 30 quirky shop signs and a line of concentric riverside rings that frame the cityscape. Every bend in the trail reveals a new surprise. Urban jungle on the Green Line Anne Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, the only one of its kind in Europe. I’m drawn also to the section on – big contrast here – biscuits! Who knew that Nantes is the home of the beloved Petit Beurre and the LU biscuit brand, once manufactured in a flamboyant quayside factory that has since been repurposed as the Lieu Unique cultural centre? From the castle, I stroll through the lush Botanic Garden, where I can’t resist a Kodak moment beneath a giant park bench, and enjoy the indoor highlights of the Arts Museum, before walking back through the elegant pedestrian shopping streets ready for dinner. FRENCH IMMERSION PROGRAMS • Homestay at your certified private tutor’s residence • Learn French & discover culture in the most beautiful places in France PLUS ONLINE LESSONS Tailor-made courses, guided conversations, French life slimmersion-france.com Capital of the Loire-Atlantique department, Nantes has come under the Pays de la Loire region since 1941, but before that was part of Brittany. In the heart of the city’s medieval quarter stands the imposing Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, started in the 15th century under Francois II, last duke of an independent Brittany, and continued under his daughter Anne, twice Queen of France. Today it makes an atmospheric home for the city’s excellent History Museum, which covers four major themes including the castle itself, two World Wars, and the city’s industrial past. I’m particularly impressed by the section on colonial economy and Nantes’ role in the Atlantic slave trade. The city confronts this period of its history full on, as can also be seen on Quai de la Fosse in the underground La Cigale I’m booked in at La Cigale, in the Cambronne district, a stunning Art Nouveau brasserie opposite the Opera house and a city institution since 1895 with its giltframed mirrors and plush décor. Expect 42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43