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Les Halles, the market of Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne © Sandrine Ferrier, Dombes TourismAncient hospital © Michael Zeildelder, Dombes Tourismhillside above the market in Châtillon (thename means “little castle”). The fiefdom wasconstructed on the ancient Roman castrumof Pagus Dumbensis, and today provides apleasant walking trail with great views.In the romantic town centre, half-timberedbuildings surround the central market site,with the military archway Gate of Villars(containing traces of the old drawbridge),church of Saint André, and Saint Vincentde Paul House all intact from the medievalperiod. National-prize-winning flower displayscoat the town in colour, lining the Chalaronneriver, little stone bridges, and various centralstreets. This has earned Châtillon the covetedlabel “ville fleurie.”Even before 1440, the year of the market’sconstruction by Piro Girard, a “maison dumarché” had been in its place from 1273,the space also serving as a religious site, aplayground, a warehouse, and a barn.Eighty meters in length and 20 meters wide,Châtillon market hosts 60-plus local vegetable,cheese, wine, bread and other merchants. Itsspectacular rectangular structure is bolsteredby an oak frame extending ten meters aboveground, composed of 89 pillars on brick basesand a “clever assembly of beams, supporting itsgable roof.”Adjacent to the market, as was common inthe Middle Ages, sits the church in theatricalgothic style. “Austere at first glance,” as localtourism officials admit, the red brick church(which is missing a bell tower) is remarkablytall for churches in the region. Inside is anelaborate apse of gold, green and burgundyfrescos, complemented by 19th centurystained glass windows lighting the nave andthe choir. Many of these depict episodesfrom the life of Châtillon’s best-known formerinhabitant, Saint Vincent de Paul who servedas pastor there for five months in 1617.Walking tours of the former charity hospitaland apothecary are on offer, treatingvisitors to an impressive collection of 120earthenware pots, an herbal tearoom, and atriptych dating to 1527. Herbologists still tendto ancient and medicinal plants on display inthe hospice courtyard.Despite the proud spirit of charity, remediesfor the ailing from de Paul’s time onward wereoften unpleasant. As the town’s heritage chiefrevealed, patients would first be brought to thechapel to confess so that their souls could besaved, before sometimes being made to drinkwater with rusty nails, swallow bleach to treatulcers, or have facial markings removed withchloric acid. “The sisters would baste variouspills and treatments in liquorice or chocolatefor the poor to make them more palatable.They coated them in gold powder for the rich,”Van Thuguyen explains. “Unfortunately manycame to the hospices to die rather than to besaved; with up to three people to a bed, germsspread quickly.”A nearby museum displays selectedmemorabilia illustrating the wares and dailypractices of local rural life, animated bywax figures dressed in peasants’ clothes.Peasant hardship (including famine andstartling mortality rates) was closely linkedto ponds dotting the surrounding landscape.© Sandrine Ferrier, Dombes TourismConstructed by Catholic monks from thethirteenth century, the ponds served tocultivate fish to sell at Lyon’s illustriousEuropean trade fairs, created in 1420 underthe future King Charles VII. Today, however,Dombes is a leading freshwater fish-producingregion, an unspoiled paradise for birds, floraand fauna.Rillettes, smoked fillet pond fish andwaterfowl are a staple across Châtillon’smany traditional restaurants, which poke outfrom various sides of the market and line theChalaronne River edge. Chefs eagerly awaitpatrons overflowing from the bustling standsand cheerful banter of the market, where timein the medieval hall seems to stand still. Onany given Saturday the butcher and baker stillclink chardonnay glasses at 10am, and therabbit and guinea pig merchants let childrencuddle their fluffy live toys. Their fellowvendors proudly serve seasonal legumes,luscious fruit, pigs ears and feet, homecookedSauerkraut, and chicken roasts swimming insizzling marinade – careful, like those beforethem, not to let any produce from the farms orwild fields go to waste.Dombes Tourism: dombes-tourisme.com102 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 103
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