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: Pierre Lenoir and Saint Nicolas © Nancy TourismSaint Nicolas photo © nickgavluk via CanvaBy the 15th century, trade had pulled Nancyout of the marshes, but it was still far fromthe rich, attractive city it is today. Charlesthe Bold opposed Louis XI and tried to makeBurgundy an independent state, and in 1476he set his sights on Nancy. It should havebeen an easy conquest, but Nancy held out,citizens resorting to eating rats to survive.Local historians and guides believe that somewere desperate enough to turn to cannibalism.The Duke of Lorraine, René II, prayed fordeliverance, and against all odds Nancywithstood the siege and won the battle. StNicolas’s status as patron saint of Lorraine wasfirmly cemented.Less than a century later another Charles sethis sights on Lorraine. Charles Quint, HolyRoman Emperor, King of Spain and Archdukeof Austria targeted Metz, just over 50 kmfrom Nancy. To taunt him, the city’s tanners,who used whips to tan their hides, createda grotesque puppet of Charles Quint whichthey paraded through the streets. The puppetbecame known as Père Fouettard.As the stories were told, largely orally, talesof cannibalism during Nancy’s 15th centurysiege and Metz’s 16th century Père Fouettardgot mixed up. The butcher’s name may havehad something to do with it. Legend had it thatthe cannibal butcher was called Pierre Lenoir,and he allegedly chopped up and ate children.Pierre Lenoir translates as Peter Black inEnglish, or Zwarte Piet in Dutch — the same asthe Dutch nemesis of St Nick.Place Stanislas decorated for the festival © Nancy TourismThe festival features street artists, music and more © Pierre Defontaine ARTGEThroughout December, the resultingamalgamated story is played out inprojections on Nancy’s Place Stanislas. Abutcher welcomes in three lost children,before slicing them up and putting thechunks in a salting barrel to marinate forseven years. It’s at this point that St Nicolaspays the butcher a visit, and he’s hungry. Thebutcher may be vicious, but he’s no fool, andhe recognises such a holy man instantly. Theonly food he has to offer is the (now extremelywell cured) children in a salting barrel, buthe can’t offer this to St Nick. All-knowing StNicolas places three fingers on the barreland resurrects the three children, whole anduntroubled, as though they’ve awoken froma long sleep. The butcher becomes PèreFouettard, St Nick’s grim sidekick.The gory story is projected on the walls of the building in Place Stanislas © Michelle Tucci StudioThe main celebrations happen the weekendclosest to December 6th (7th–8th thisDecember), when Père Fouettard and StNicolas take to the streets to hand out coaland turnips to children (Father Flog) orsweets (St Nick). The spectacle culminateswhen St Nicolas arrives on the balcony of themagnificent Hôtel de Ville. The mayor giveshim the keys to the building and the Christmastrees, Christmas lights and streetlights burstinto life, and none of the children, real orfictional, seem in the least bit traumatisedfrom their cannibal-themed nativity play!Find out more about this fabulously fun festivalat nancy-tourisme.fr/enThe festival features street artists, music and more © Pierre Defontaine ARTGE36 | The Good Life FranceThe Good Life France | 37
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