© Jeremy Flint Chateau

© Jeremy Flint Chateau of Ancy-le-Franc © Jeremy Flint After a tranquil night in the silent countryside, we set off to meet the operator at lock number 60 to continue our journey. There is no commercial traffic on the Canal de Bourgogne and it’s a very tranquil route. You can hop off an enjoy a walk, cycle along the tow path or simply gently float and soak up the splendid scenery as we did on route to Ravières where we jumped on our rented bikes to the nearest town and gorged on Gougères - a Burgundian savoury speciality - fluffy choux pastry with Gruyère cheese. Plunging through picturesque locks in the afternoon, numerous sites of interest caught our attention along and near the canal, including the fascinating 18th century historic monument, the Grande Forge de Buffon and Rougemont, a medieval ‘Cité de Caractère’ with a magnificent 13th century church. © Jeremy Flint and once home to Antoine III de Clermont, brother-in-law to Diane de Poitier (1499- 1566), mistress of French King Henri II, who stayed here and in whose rooms, it’s said, her ghost has been seen! Continuing on to lovely Lézinnes, we arrived in time to relax at the side of the boat with an aperitif in the sunshine - you can’t help feeling it doesn’t get much better than this! The next day we were due to turn back but it was tempting not to as fellow boaters we had met recommended cruising on towards Tanlay to see its spectacular moated chateau and extravagant interiors and frescoes. And beyond that, Tonnerre is another must-see with its Fosse Dionne, a circular basin fed by a natural spring that was once a public washing place and the striking church of Saint-Pierre that sits on a rocky terrace overlooking the town. On this route, you’ll never run out of pretty villages to fall in love with, castles to be wowed by, boulangeries to try, markets to shop at… Overnighting at Ravières, a pretty little village, we strolled the town’s streets lined with halftimbered houses, before stocking up on food (by the way, some lock keepers also sell local products such as honey, wine and jam). Continuing to Ancy-le-Franc the next day, we snaked through the locks and glided along at a gentle pace, appreciating the ease of the self-drive boat and the pleasure of slow travel. Gradually, the locks become more widespread and the lush landscapes and teeming wildlife even more alluring. We spotted numerous herons fishing at the water’s edge, otters enjoying the sunshine, kingfishers, dragonflies, and a variety of interesting bird life. Be sure to have your binoculars and cameras at the ready. Arriving at Ancy-le-Franc, we cycled to the delicious Maison Kieffer bakery to feast on fresh bread and mouth-watering pastries, before visiting the 16th century chateau, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture Aperitifs at sunset © Jeremy Flint Abbey of Fontenay © Jeremy Flint 80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81