© Jeremy FlintChateau © Jeremy FlintChateau of Ancy-le-Franc © Jeremy FlintAfter a tranquil night in the silent countryside,we set off to meet the operator at locknumber 60 to continue our journey. Thereis no commercial traffic on the Canal deBourgogne and it’s a very tranquil route. Youcan hop off an enjoy a walk, cycle along thetow path or simply gently float and soak upthe splendid scenery as we did on route toRavières where we jumped on our rented bikesto the nearest town and gorged on Gougères –a Burgundian savoury speciality - fluffy chouxpastry with Gruyère cheese.Plunging through picturesque locks in theafternoon, numerous sites of interest caughtour attention along and near the canal,including the fascinating 18th century historicmonument, the Grande Forge de Buffon andRougemont, a medieval ‘Cité de Caractère’with a magnificent 13th century church.© Jeremy Flintand once home to Antoine III de Clermont,brother-in-law to Diane de Poitier (1499-1566), mistress of French King Henri II, whostayed here and in whose rooms, it’s said, herghost has been seen!Continuing on to lovely Lézinnes, we arrivedin time to relax at the side of the boat withan aperitif in the sunshine - you can’t helpfeeling it doesn’t get much better than this!The next day we were due to turn back butit was tempting not to as fellow boaters wehad met recommended cruising on towardsTanlay to see its spectacular moated chateauand extravagant interiors and frescoes. Andbeyond that, Tonnerre is another must-seewith its Fosse Dionne, a circular basin fed by anatural spring that was once a public washingplace and the striking church of Saint-Pierrethat sits on a rocky terrace overlooking thetown. On this route, you’ll never run out ofpretty villages to fall in love with, castles tobe wowed by, boulangeries to try, markets toshop at…Overnighting at Ravières, a pretty little village,we strolled the town’s streets lined with halftimberedhouses, before stocking up on food(by the way, some lock keepers also sell localproducts such as honey, wine and jam).Continuing to Ancy-le-Franc the next day,we snaked through the locks and glidedalong at a gentle pace, appreciating theease of the self-drive boat and the pleasureof slow travel. Gradually, the locks becomemore widespread and the lush landscapesand teeming wildlife even more alluring.We spotted numerous herons fishing at thewater’s edge, otters enjoying the sunshine,kingfishers, dragonflies, and a variety ofinteresting bird life. Be sure to have yourbinoculars and cameras at the ready.Arriving at Ancy-le-Franc, we cycled to thedelicious Maison Kieffer bakery to feast onfresh bread and mouth-watering pastries,before visiting the 16th century chateau, amasterpiece of Renaissance architectureAperitifs at sunset © Jeremy FlintAbbey of Fontenay © Jeremy Flint80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81
