The Cote d’Azur

The Cote d’Azur (French Riviera in English), named after the azure blue of the Mediterranean sea, is famous for its glittering beach life and glamorous cities. But there’s another side to this stretch of southern France, a side that has long lured artists and where art de vivre is a way of life. Discover the creative soul of the French Riviera says Janine Marsh. Le Cannet, the Bay of Cannes in the distance Art de vivre, artists & artisans of the French Riviera In the late 18 th century, English aristocrats flocked to the Riviera, as they called it, for the winter sunshine. Artists soon followed, from Renoir to Matisse, Picasso to Chagall, drawn by the light, the colour, the good life - and the fact that even in January it’s often warm enough to sit outside. They travelled all over the Cote d’Azur and settled in peaceful perched villages and tranquil seaside towns and it’s easy to see what made them fall in love with the area. Skip the summer crowds and visit the French Riviera from September to March to discover the laidback season’s calm beauty. Wander lesser-known, sunlit villages, meet artisans, warm your hands near a glassblower’s furnace, and trace the footsteps of some of the world’s greatest artists. I started my journey in Le Cannet, just a few kilometres from glitzy Cannes where Pablo Picasso lived in the 1950s, nicknaming his home in the Costebelle district, the Minotaur’s lair. Le Cannet is an elegant and vibrant town with all the sunshine of its glamorous neighbour but not the crowds. It’s here that post-impressionist Pierre Bonnard moved to from his native Paris. The town’s Musée Bonnard is dedicated to the painter and hosts several temporary exhibitions each year. Take a wander down Rue Saint- Sauveur to discover dozens of artisan shops from jewellers to santon makers, painters, a goldsmith and more and pop into the Chapelle du Saint-Sauveur to see the frescoes painted by expressionist artist Théo Tobiasse. Take a break at the superb La Maison Bellevue restaurant, enjoy delicious Mediterranean dishes and the view over the bay of Cannes. Or head to Le Bistrot des Anges, a bistronomic restaurant with a menu designed by Bruno Oger whose 2 Michelin Star Villa Archange is next door. Le Cannet by Pierre Bonnard at the Bonnard Museum Giant Head of Picasso, by Catalan artist Xavier Gonzalez pays homage to Picasso’s time in Mougins From here it’s a short distance to the perched village of Mougins with its tranquil, winding cobbled streets, it feels like another world from Cannes which is just 6 km away. Mougins is where Picasso chose to spend his final years. Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Fernand Leger, Isadora Duncan and a plethora of creatives spent time here. And no wonder, there is something special about this village, the light, the ambiance, the views over the countryside - it feels peaceful and timeless. There are 24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25