and sculptures, take a

and sculptures, take a workshop with milliner Véronique Bahuaud who works with haute couture houses, and Didier Bougon, one of a handful of barrel organ makers left in France. And don’t miss the Belle Epoque style Maison Battu, where master pâtissier, chocolatier and glacier Jean Luc Battu and his son create the most delicious cakes, sweets, ice cream and chocolates - including Esprit Blanchard, chocolate and cinnamon (utterly irresistible). There are plenty of restaurants open yearround, (Les Filles À Maman is lovely) and there’s a weekly Saturday market. Whatever you do don’t skip lunch at Au Marché de Provence (74 Ave du Barriot), this cosy café run by husband-and-wife team Olivier and Marie, is loved by the locals and serves up generous portions of the most delicious food (their pain perdu is memorable). There are plenty of cultural sites including the Ferrande Tower, as 12 th century monument with 12 th century Frescoes, costume, and bike museum, and the fascinating Maison Fléchier in a beautiful old mansion house which presents a quirky exhibition of folklore and traditions of Provence. porteduventoux.com La Margelle a charming hotel in the centre of town Richerenches The scent of summer in Provence is lavender, in winter it’s truffles and nowhere celebrates the “black gold” more joyfully than Richerenches. From late November to early March, one of the largest truffle markets in France takes place every Saturday morning. It’s a rather clandestine affair, whispered prices, cash only, no haggling, but it’s rumoured some 300-400kg per week are sold here. While there, you must indulge - and there are plenty of truffle-themed menus in all the restaurants, but for me the best was lunch at the town hall. Anyone can go (book well in advance for this popular event via the tourist office), you sit on long tables with strangers Chef Olivier at Au Marché de Provence, authentic Provencal cooking at its best Richerenches, which boasts one of the most well-preserved 12 th century Knights Templar Commanderies in Provence who quickly become friends not least due to the kir aperitif and help-yourself glasses of excellent Côtes du Rhône wine. Each week a different Association prepares and serves the lunch which consists of starter, main course, cheese, dessert, drinks and coffee - very inexpensive, and really, really good fun. After a wander round the town, a former Knights Templar stronghold, and a visit to Hunting for truffle treasure at Domaine Saint-Alban the Museum of Truffles and Wine, I couldn’t resist a spot of treasure hunting while in the area. Just 5 minutes by car from the centre of Richerenches, Domaine Saint-Alban offers daily truffle hunts by appointment (email or phone) from November to the end of March. Join Christian Allègre and his dog Holly on a truffle tour which includes a wine tasting of their own wines. We were joined by Christian’s 8-year-old grandson Gabin, a real chip off the old block who used his great grandfather’s 100-year-old pick to dig for truffles once Holly had snuffled them out. “You brought good luck” Christian told me as we headed back to his barn to warm up carrying half a kilo of truffles. We celebrated with outrageously delicious truffle butter slathered on bread with pesto and a glass of deep red wine. There is a legend that a lord of Provence fell in love with a young girl who demanded the right to pick mushrooms in return for a kiss. He agrees and she picked all the truffles - and they got married! Séguret in winter, cobbled streets and tinkling fountains Séguret A 30-minute drive through glorious countryside, past silent vineyards lined with coppery-leaved hedges lit by soft sunlight, hilltop villages topped by castles and church towers, brings you to Séguret. This pinchyourself-it’s-so-pretty village is like a living painting with narrow cobbled streets, stunning views, ancient houses, tearooms, artists’ studios and restaurants. It’s famous for hosting a nativity scene on Xmas eve with real people rather than with the santons, little figurines, 44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45