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Sunny, scented Grasse Spotlight on GRASSE Grasse sits about 15km inland from Cannes on the Côte d’Azur, and it’s the most perfumed city in France says Janine Marsh as she explores its fragrant charms. Sweet scents assail your nostrils as soon as you arrive in Grasse. Whether you’re wandering in the Parc Princesse Pauline, named after Napoleon’ Bonaparte’s sister who used to holiday here in the winter, and where on warm days they spray jasmine scented water to cool you down, or whether you’re strolling in the old town where there are too many perfume shops to count, plus perfume museums and perfume schools - not to mention some 30 perfume factories in and around the town - the air smells good. But it wasn’t always like this. It used to reek. Historically, Grasse had a thriving leather tanning industry which left a foul stench in the air that also lingered on the leather gloves that were the town’s speciality. When commissioned to make a pair of gloves for the wife of King Henri II, Catherine de Medici, local tanner Jean de Galimard came up with the idea of perfumed gloves, steeping the leather in aromatic solutions and fragrant pastes. The queen loved them, and gifted 8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9
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